I have been collecting jet jewelry for decades. I learned about it through my mother who was an antique jewelry dealer. I’m attracted to the feel of polished jet and I appreciate its long history. I have beads, several brooches, a bracelet, and a fabulous carved jet ring. It’s getting harder and harder to find now, even in the UK.
Jet is a type of coal, a fossilized wood of an ancient tree that covered the earth in the Jurassic period (about 180 million years ago). Jet was used as a jewel and talisman by the ancient Greeks and Romans. Later in England and Europe, it was used in religious jewelry. In America, jet was found in Utah and Colorado and used by the Pueblo people in their jewelry.
Jet is black, lightweight, and although smooth, it has a bit of a tacky feel. Polished it reminds me of patent leather.
It was in Victorian England that jet became associated with mourning. Prince Albert died in 1861, after which Queen Victoria went into a deep and long period of mourning. She wore nothing but black, including jewelry. And with that, jet jewelry was all the rage.
When my mother died in April, I searched my mind for a way to reflect my grief. In our modern world, there is no way to indicate one is in mourning. There used to be traditions – only black clothing for the first year, then mauve in the second year. Everyone wore black to funerals. Now no one does. A black band around the arm was an indication of mourning.
(I did notice that after Queen Elizabeth’s recent death, broadcasters in the UK and of course the royal family immediately started wearing black and some British citizens sported black bands.)
I thought about jet and how it had once been more than just lovely pieces of jewelry. Jet was used as a symbol. I pulled out my collection, chose a brooch and pinned it on to my dress. Every day since, I wear this jet brooch on my right shoulder as a reminder that I have lost someone important to me. No one knows what it means, but I do. The practice of pinning it on every morning is part of my grieving process and I find it comforting. I plan to wear it every day up until the first anniversary of my mother’s death.
OverDressed for Life 
I love small, personal rituals… from altars that are remembrances, to wearing of special, meaningful jewelry & accessories, or keeping a personal note from our loved one in pocket. We stay connected. As you say, no one else need notice, but we feel ‘at home’ to recognize the familiar, to spark a warm memory, even our childhood sense of safety thru a symbol. I love that pinning on your brooch each day revives that connection, reminds of affection still alive & deeply felt… it’s like following a path of stepping stones. Rather than forcing forward motion by brushing aside brambles & stones, we can gently step on each stepping stone, remember or whisper a greeting, & continue on our path. It is gentle & laid out before us by the many who ‘came before’.
I love this, Moya. What a beautiful collection! I always thought my black cut glass was Jet — I learned something.
My stepmother sent me a unique Guatemalan jacket of my dad’s — I decided to wear it this winter. It’s black and white. Maybe I’ll add some jet!