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Posts Tagged ‘fashion icons’

Elizabeth Wilson, born in 1936, was among the first to cross fashion with feminism with academics. A former professor at London’s College of Fashion and the author of non-fiction books and a detective series, Wilson has now written a memoir in which she shares her early life and her path from activist to fashion academic.

In Unfolding the Past published by Bloomsbury Press, Wilson digs into her childhood and early adulthood in post WWII London where she and her mother settled while her father worked as an administrator in Sierra Leone. She describes her family as being in “reduced circumstances” living not in Kensington as her mother wished, but instead a mile or so to the east on the end of a “shabby street” in a 4-story house owned by her grandparents. Her mother’s disappointment in life colored Wilson’s childhood and perhaps set her up to be a somewhat rebellious young adult.

She opens the second chapter with – “Every Thursday, a Harrods van drew up outside our front door and the driver, uniformed in green, delivered a cardboard box tied round with pink tape. It contained the weekly volume from Harrods’ lending library, chosen by my mother after she had read the book reviews in the Daily Telegraph and the Sunday Times. Usually it was a novel, but books on history, popular psychiatry, and the Cold War turned up from time to time. The delivery to our terraced house was out of place in the marginal social world of my childhood. At the lower end of the street, tall stuccoed mansions had fallen into decay …”

Wilson gives this kind of detail throughout the book offering vivid descriptions of her family, friends, herself and her wardrobe, as well as of a bleak, but fascinating London just after the war and into the 1960s. I would say this isn’t a straight forward memoir, but more of a wondering through Wilson’s thoughts and opinions. With references to other academics, popular culture, literature, art, and music we get an abstract picture of her life. From child to young adult, communist and feminist, throughout it all clothing, she says, was her “prop” offering some “self-confidence.”

Unfolding the Past is an unusual thought-provoking read that one could go back to again and again and learn something new.

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I could see any one of these vintage Patrick Kelly gowns on the Red Carpet. Photo courtesy of The San Francisco Fine Arts Museums.

More and more people are aware that what we see on the red carpet is paid for – a branding opportunity. So, when someone chooses to wear vintage, they’re kind of saying: ‘I’m an individual here. I really love how it looks on me. I don’t care that it’s not sponsored by some brand!’ That feels more authentic to a lot of people in a very branded world.

Cherie Balch – Canadian founder of the well-known online vintage store, Shrimpton Couture.

This quote is from an article in the Style Section of the New York Times, January 6th, 2022.

Demi Moore was the first to wear a vintage gown to the Oscars in 1992 (Versace) and since then there has been a parade of celebrities following suit – Julia Roberts, Margot Robbie, and Emma Watson to name a few.

The Academy Awards is coming up next Sunday. Who will wear what on the red carpet?

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Cameron Silver. Photo courtesy of Frederic Aranda.

It’s so much fun. It’s couture. It’s reference. It’s memories. Everything is disposable now. Ownership is nothing. People take selfies at stores pretending that they have bought something. Clothes are actually representing the way you live.

Cameron Silver – celebrity stylist, fashion director of H by Halston, and owner of Decades, the renowned vintage clothing store located in Los Angeles.

This quote is from the book California Elegance: Portraits from the Final Frontier, by Christine Suppes, photographs by Frederic Aranda (Mondadori).

Through photographs and interviews California Elegance takes an up-close look at some California originals. People such as the fashion design duo Kate and Laura Mulleavy, sculpture artist Ruth Asawa, and cryptologist Whit Diffie. People in business, tech, retail, PR, farmers, artists, activists, scientists, even an aromatherapist! Covering up and down the coast and inland as well, Suppes and Aranda introduce readers to a diverse group of Californians highlighting what makes the Golden State truly unique.

In his quote about vintage clothing, Silver makes a few interesting points. I agree that vintage is about memories. A personal memory or a general memory of time and place and what was going on in the world, say when miniskirts were all the rage during the Vietnam War. Disposable clothing takes with it to the dump both our personal and general memories. How sad to not be able to pull out a sweater and instantly revisit a particular moment, day, or event in our lives. Clothing is another keeper of personal stories, like a photo or a journal.

I didn’t know about people taking selfies at boutiques, but I’m not surprised. It seems these days it’s all about costume and pretending and living our lives for and on social media. Take a selfie, post it, and then move on to the next “experience.”

There’s a trend now for renting rather than buying and I understand that’s an attempt to address the issue of sustainability. We can rent furniture, clothing, accessories and so on. But where’s the fun in that? If I like a chair or a dress or a handbag I want it in my life permanently. I want it to figure in my story, because what we own and wear and use is a part of who we are and how we live our lives. We don’t have to own a lot of things, but a few important quality pieces that make us happy to me is essential.

Thank you to Cameron Silver for a great quote. Thank you also to Christine Suppes and Frederic Aranda for granting ODFL permission to use the quote and photo.

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Photo by cottonbro studio on Pexels.com

I used to watch my grandmother Helen get ready to go out shopping when I was living with her. I remember her ritual of choosing her clothes and putting on her makeup and putting hair spray in her hair that had been set. And the last thing she did was put on the pearls. So, I just always associated pearls with being a very ladylike, womanly thing. A pearl necklace on a boy or someone who identifies as male becomes this (bleeping) with gender. And I like wearing pearls, and I like getting my nails done. And I don’t think those things belong to gender.

Marc Jacobs – American fashion designer.

The quote is from Harper’s Bazaar, Dec. 2020/Jan. 2021 issue.

Jacobs goes on to say that he finally bought himself a pearl necklace one recent Christmas and he calls the single strand of Mikimoto pearls “part of my ritual self-care.”

I can relate to the love of pearls and ritual self-care. There’s something comforting about a strand of pearls resting against my neck and I find the luster and texture of the creamy beads soothing. Self-care is important – in the form of a piece of jewelry, a cup of tea, a walk in nature, a manicure, a nap – whatever works and it’s interesting just how simple it can be. My ritual of self-care is a daily walk, an afternoon cup of green tea, and reading a good book in the evening. Also, I wear jewelry every day. I enjoy the morning ritual of sitting at my vanity and choosing a ring to slip on my finger, a necklace to hang around my neck, a bracelet to grace my wrist.

How about you, ODFL readers? Do you have a piece of jewelry that makes you feel good? Do you have a self-care ritual? Please share!

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Edie Sedgwick in her signature KJL oversized earrings.

One day early that fall of 1964, I was going to visit my grandmother, who was drifting further and further into dementia, and I was wearing a nice sweater and skirt and my Gucci loafers and, as usual, no makeup. The elevator door opened, and out stepped Edie in a black body stocking, high heeled boots, and a little fox-fur vest; not only that, she was wearing false eyelashes and the most enormous earrings I had ever seen, made of peacock feathers. I was so shocked. I remember saying, “Is that the way you want to go around?” Edie just giggled and said she thought it was fun. Those enormous earrings became her trademark, and guess who designed them? Ken Lane. He had been saying for a while that he wanted to make really big, really lightweight costume jewelry, and now all at once he became a hugely successful designer and sought-after member of the jet set. Ken told me he owed it all to Edie wearing his earrings.

Alice Sedgwick Wohl – scholar/translator and author of the book As It Turns Out: Thinking About Edie and Andy (FS&G).

We’re talking American pop icons Edie Sedgwick and Andy Warhol. As Edie’s older sister, Alice gives readers a unique perspective on the Sedgwick family, Edie and her partnership with Andy, and just what the heck her appeal was (and still is).

Both sisters knew jewelry designer Kenneth Jay Lane, who was also a buddy of Warhol’s.

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Suit by Vivienne Westwood from the Anglomania Collection, 1993.

It’s the appreciation of the past for me, how she translates that to the now. I’ve always been into history and historical garments – the construction and cut of those clothes is so interesting to dissect and play with. Westwood triumphs at that. Playing with British heritage as she and Andres do is a real turn-on for me. And their appreciation of quality – I’m a sucker for luscious fabric.

Flint J McDonald – British fashion designer.

McDonald is speaking of British fashion designer Vivienne Westwood and her husband Andres (creative director of the Westwood brand) about how the couple influenced his work. I found this quote in the magazine AnOther, Autumn/Winter, 2021.

I was shocked and saddened to hear of the death of Vivienne Westwood on December 29, 2022.

Although she had no formal fashion design training, she had learned to sew at a young age and made all her own clothes. I was greatly impressed with her talent for construction and the ability to turn classic silhouettes and patterns into the unexpected.

Her skill and unique voice in the world will be missed.

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Iris Apfel. Photo: Roger Davies.

I remember Sandy saying to me ‘Oh, you don’t wear your collection’ – like it was a no-no. Maybe we just have different perspectives on collecting. I thought it was rather ridiculous to just buy clothes and put them in a box. I used to wear everything.

Iris Apfel – American fashion icon.

This quote is from an article in Harper’s Bazaar titled The Collector’s Eye, Dec 2022/Jan 2023, by Allison S. Cohn. In the quote Apfel referrers to couture collector Sandy Schreier.

Here here! I agree that clothing is for wearing, not for hiding away in a closet. Although, there are pieces that just can’t be worn – for example I have a 1920s chiffon dress that is too fragile. I also have quite a few articles of clothing that belonged to my mother (vintage pieces that I remember her wearing when I was a child) and I wear many of them, but some are too big, too small, or just not my style. They have a different purpose – they are providing inspiration for my mother/daughter memoir (currently a work in progress).

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Photo by Ulysses Ortega.

I didn’t just want to be someone who bought clothes. I wanted to learn about them. So, I collected them, wrote about them, and have had a life of helping to get exhibitions off the ground.

Christine Suppes – fashion collector and the author of the book Electric Fashion (Skira), which is a photo documentary of her couture collection. Photos by fashion photographer Frederic Aranda.

This quote is from the article, The Collector’s Eye, by Alison S. Cohn, in Harper’s Bazaar, Dec. 2022/Jan. 2023.

Suppes, a resident of Palo Alto, CA recently donated more than 500 pieces of her couture fashion collection to the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco. Her donation includes pieces by Christian Lacroix, Yves Saint Laurent, and Balenciaga. (And you heard it here first, in January 2024 the de Young Museum, inspired by Suppes donation, will open a fashion exhibition featuring the legacy of some of the Bay Area’s most fashionable women both past and present.)

As a member of Costume Society of America, I have heard and read discussions about museums accepting fashion donations. Should they? What should they accept? How and where will they preserve the clothing? It goes hand in hand with the general discussion over whether or not fashion belongs in museums at all. The biggest and much debated question – is fashion art?

The truth is fashion exhibits bring in money – especially those that include popular designer names. I would venture so say that a collection of couture clothing would be welcomed at any museum.

When I was in Seattle a few years ago for a fashion history conference, I attended a fashion exhibit at The Museum of History and Industry. This regional-focused exhibit, called Seattle Style: Fashion/Function, highlighted vintage and modern clothing owned by local people mostly purchased from local department stores and boutiques. It was by no means a spectacle exhibit and that’s why I enjoyed it so much. The fashions on display gave us a peek into what the people of Seattle wore in sunny weather and in rain; to the theater; to the 1962 World’s Fair; or just to work and the grocery store. Regional style, dictated by weather, culture, and tradition, is a fascinating subject and as much as I enjoy “big fashion” and the impeccable crafting of couture, I’m also interested in everyday fashion, particularly from past eras.

I’m looking forward to the upcoming de Young fashion exhibit and learning how Bay Area style is perceived.

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(Love the socks!)

ODFL pauses to honor the memory of Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr.

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Photo by MART PRODUCTION on Pexels.com

There’s also an emotional component to clothing that is important to take into account. We hold on to garments because we are convinced that one day they may be the answer to a problem, or because they represent moments in time we cherish, or because they cheer us up or make us feel powerful or happy. Clothes feed our imagination, and that can help us get through the day as much as clothes that function.

Vanessa Friedman – Fashion Director & Chief Fashion Critic for the New York Times.

This is a partial response to a question submitted to Ms. Friedman’s column. The question was: How many items of clothing do we need?

I agree that we hang on to certain items of clothing for a variety or reasons. I have much of my mother’s clothing that she wore when I was a little girl. I keep these pieces (and some I wear myself) because they are classic, good quality, and they hold memories. I also have a beautiful cashmere pullover sweater that belonged to my dad. It’s way too big for me, but styled with a wide belt and boots, it’s an unexpected winter look.

Sadly, over the years I have been less inclined to keep my own clothing. I let slip away a nice wool blazer, but I do still have a black wool suit that I bought in Canada. Funny what we keep and what we don’t. I wish I still had the snakeskin pumps I sported when I was a teenager (with fuchsia corduroy pants). They were vintage 1960s and got I rid of them in a fit of “I’ll never wear these again!”.

What do you still have in your closet from years ago? What did you get rid of that you now regret?

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