Posts Tagged ‘Marc Jacobs’

Pearls go with everything and can go anywhere. They’re not too much and not too little but everything you’d ask for in a piece of jewelry.

Cindy Marshall, retired antique jewelry dealer and my mother.

Mom comes out with these little gems every so often. We were chatting on the phone and I mentioned that I’d been wearing her pearl bracelet that she had passed on to me years ago. I hadn’t worn it much, saving it for special occasions until my recent pull toward pearls inspired me to wear this bracelet every day, just because I like it.

It seems I’m not the only person drawn to pearls lately. Fashion designer Marc Jacobs told Harper’s Bazaar that after years of wanting, he finally bought himself a strand of pearls for Christmas last year. He says that the pearls are like a good luck charm and bring him joy during the pandemic. I recently interviewed a jeweler about trends and pearls are on the list. She told me that young women, influenced by the young British royals, are buying pearls.

I suspect that women are also inspired by another fan of pearls – Vice President Kamala Harris, who has made pearls her signature. Single strands, double strands, layered, mixed with gold and even diamonds, Vice President Harris loves her pearls. (I love that fact that she sports her pearls with her other favorite accessory – Converse sneakers.)

I agree with my mother that pearls are now an every day choice that go with everything. I like pearls with t-shirts. Or layers of pearls peeking out from underneath a blouse. Or a long strand on a lightweight sweater. Pearls are fun to play with and they don’t have to be real; faux pearls can be as lovely and lustrous as the real thing. And by the way, pearl is the birthstone for June.

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One of the assignments in the fashion history class I recently completed was to find historical fashion references in current fashion. In magazines I looked for examples covering ancient clothing to the 20th century and matched with historical images from books, plus I had to write a comment.

This week we have the fluff and frills of the 18th Century Ball Gown.



This expansive backside and numerous ruffles makes this gown by Marc Jacobs fit for any Rococo 18th Century royal court. (But this model’s tiny head is calling for a tall wig.)



More historical fashion next week.

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Marc Jacobs strikes a pose in Harper’s Bazaar, May 2020. Photo: Zoey Grossman.

I was leaving my shrink one day in a Celine leopard coat and rhinestone hair clips – I was done up. I noticed this sanitation worker staring at me and thought he was a hater, but then he said, ‘Love that outfit, man, you go.’

Marc Jacobs – American fashion designer.

I love that his handbag, by Hermes, has a cup holder.

Marc Jacobs is a controversial designer, but I have always liked him. Often his designs are vintage inspired, which appeals to me.

Word has it that Jacobs has lost his way in fashion. I took a peek online at his spring 2020 show and he’s all over the map. There’s no cohesion to the line, which includes 40s-inspired suits, 70s-style maxi dresses, 60s mini-dresses and some avant-garde dresses a la Balenciaga. All colors, all patterns, shapes, silhouettes are included. Hats run the gamut, too.

In total contradiction, the show itself was minimalist. It took place in a large empty venue with no runway, none of the usual fashion show hoopla. Just the audience and the models, who initially came out all together and walked between and past the audience, reconvened in the back and then came out one at a time, keeping a reasonable pace (nice for journalists and anyone who really wants to see the clothes).

I read that since the shutdown Jacobs has been posting selfies on Instagram. That’s got me wondering what his post-pandemic designs will be like.



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Marc Jacobs Redux Grunge Collection.  The entire look, without the jewelry, can be had for $1990. 

There are all these conversations in my head about, What is fashion anymore? Who is fashion for? Where’s it going? With the internet, it all becomes so overwhelming. 

Marc Jacobs, American fashion designer.

Jacobs has remade 26 looks from his infamous Perry Ellis spring 1993 collection. The one labeled “grunge.” The one that was a disaster as far as fashion editors were concerned and the head honchos at Perry Ellis, who promptly fired Jacobs.

Pushing back against the current fashion system, which he says isn’t working, Jacobs wants to “mix things up” and try something different. So here we go again with grunge.

But since we’ve been here before, is grunge different enough?

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There are many hatmakers who just make hats, and who don’t think about the fashion. I love thinking about the fashion, and the crazy thing about fashion is that every six months you have to reinvent yourself. Fashion makes sense when it matches the mood and the moment. It’s about the now.

Stephen Jones, English Milliner

This year Mr. Jones celebrates his 60th birthday and 40 years making hats!
Jones has made remarkable hats and fascinators for everyone from Boy George and Isabella Blow to Princess Diana and most recently Pippa Middleton. He has worked with designers John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier and Marc Jacobs to name just a few, while also maintaining his own line of hats.


One of my favorite Stephen Jones hats from Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2012.


A Club Boy back in the 70s, Jones studied at St. Martin’s in London. He began making hats for friends in 1977 and hasn’t looked back since. Today he creates head-turning masterpieces in his studio/shop located in an 18th century Convent Garden building. (What a perfect spot for inspiration.)

Congratulations to Stephen Jones. Here’s to may more years of fabulous hats!!

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designerAs one who celebrates and strives for diversity, individual freedom and respect for all lifestyles, I will not participate in dressing or associating in any way with the next First Lady. The rhetoric of racism, sexism and xenophobia unleashed by her husband’s presidential campaign are incompatible with the shared values we live by. I encourage my fellow designers to do the same.

– Sophie Theallet, French fashion designer and designer for Michelle Obama. This quote was taken from an open letter from Ms. Theallet released shortly after the election of Trump.

Sophie Theallet was the first to say it and since then many other designers including Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs, and Phillip Lim have also stated they would not dress Melania Trump. But there are others who claim they would be honored. The Daily Mail reported Tommy Hilfiger and B. Michael are interested. (I’m very sorry to hear about B. Michael as he is one of my favorite designers.)

Now it’s true that Ms. Trump can buy whomever she wants off-the-rack and that is what she’s been doing but usually designers are lining up to work with any new First Lady. Even the unpopular Nancy Reagan had her go-to designers such as Oscar de la Renta, and as far as I know no one refused to design for her.

I think it speaks volumes that not only are some designers NOT anxious to work with Ms. Trump but that others are using this opportunity to take a stand against the horrors of Trump and his cronies. It seems Ms. Trump is beyond unpopular, by association and frankly, by her absence of First Lady qualities. Not to mention her apparent lack of interest in being First Lady.

Thank you Sophie Theallet, Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs, Phillip Lim and all the designers and artists who are standing strong against what is wrong. You are an inspiration!


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Sadly, the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute Gala has become nothing more than a celebrity spectacle. With the likes of Jennifer Lopez, Lady Gaga, and Justin Bieber showing up looking like clowns, the event-of-the-year that used to be an evening of elegance for people in the fashion industry and their supporters has descended into Hollywood Trash Night.

This year’s gala celebrated the opening of China: Through the Looking Glass, an exhibition that explores the inspiration Chinese culture has had on western fashion. Some attendees (and their stylists) took the theme of the exhibit and went mad with oversized headdresses and excessive sequins. Others came up with their own theme – Raunchy – and sported revealing gowns that showed off what, I guess, they think is their best assets. Too bad for them.

Sorry SJP this is not a good look for you.

Sorry SJP this is not a good look for you.

In my online research I spotted only two well-dressed women – Cher, which is surprising as she is usually leading the Trash Pack, and Chinese actress Ni Ni. Notice they chose elegant gowns with the subtle interest in the fabric. Excess isn’t necessary nor is semi-nudity. Follow a theme, yes, but don’t overdo it.

Ni Ni looks lovely in Ralph Lauren.

Ni Ni looks lovely in Ralph Lauren.

Cher with the designer who dressed her, Marc Jacobs.

Cher with the designer who dressed her, Marc Jacobs.

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A LV tote made of LV handbags. Designed by Marc Jacobs.

A LV tote made of LV handbags. Designed by Marc Jacobs.

I recently saw the 2007 documentary Marc Jacobs & Louis Vuitton and actually, watched it twice. It was fascinating to see Mr. Jacobs at work brainstorming ideas with his team, designing on fit models and planning runway shows, all while puffing away on cigarette after cigarette. And … he had to do this twice: once in Paris for the brand Louis Vuitton and then again in NYC for his own line, Marc Jacobs. (But this is no longer the case since Mr. Jacobs left his position as creative director at LV in fall 2013.)

Marc Jacobs & Louis Vuitton includes commentary by Mr. Jacobs as well as other fashion industry notables like Anna Wintour, in-house and backstage footage, and close-up peeks at fashion artisans at work.

For example, we’re in on a creative meeting where Mr. Jacobs comes up with the crazy idea of making a tote from VL handbags. Then later we watch several artisans work on the bag, speaking French, trying to stitch leather on a huge industrial sewing machine. It looked like pure hell putting that bag together but the LV staff persevered (I suspect all French cursing was edited out) and got it done minutes before the Paris Fashion Week runway show. Apparently, 28 of those bags were ordered as a result.  I wonder if the intrepid artisans got the hang of it by number 27.

This film is a very informative behind-the-scenes view of the hectic life of a corporate fashion designer. It’s like taking a super fun fashion class without pop quizzes.

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MV5BMTYxOTMwMjg5N15BMl5BanBnXkFtZTcwNjExMjE2MQ@@__V1_SY317_CR8,0,214,317_It’s kind of a charmed situation. Anything that is associated with Marc Jacobs instantly becomes popular. It’s sort of the combination of extremely beautiful, extremely unpretentious, and extremely hip. I mean, the cachet is extraordinary.

– Novelist Francine Prose speaking about fashion designer Marc Jacobs in the documentary film, Marc Jacobs & Louis Vuitton.



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Vivienne Westwood Red Label Spring 2012. Image: Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway

Even as a fashion writer it’s difficult to think spring when we’re just entering fall. But for you my dear readers, I endured the struggle and took a peek at the spring 2012 fashion shows. Here’s what to keep in mind:

  1. Continuation of color and prints.
  2. The 1920s is favored with dropped waist evening dresses and lots o’ beads.
  3. The tuxedo is a big look updated with wide-leg pants.
  4. Pencil skirts are still hot but with a new twist – draped.
  5. Cropped tops. (Back again?)
  6. Athletic fabrics, especially mesh.
  7. White and more white in lace, eyelet, and sheer fabrics.

Designers that spoke to me:

I always enjoy Ralph Lauren for his classic American designs. He continues to find inspiration in the 1920s. Sheer fabric dresses and skirts in subtle pastels. Floral scarves, cloche hats, lacy cardis and three-piece suits. Super palazzo pants paired with super platform shoes. Beaded gowns for evening in white and silver. Both day and evening wear are fabulously elegant but without the fuss.

Vivienne Westwood is another favorite of mine. I admire her tailoring and unexpected use of plaids. For the most part this spring season Westwood avoids bright colors and instead keeps to creams, pale blues, and black. She shows a lot of draped dresses, which really, only a very tall woman can wear. But there are some rockin’ plaid skirts with a flounce and the most unstructured suit I’ve ever seen – straight skirt,  jacket has draped collar, and belted at the waist.  (Pictured above.)

Marc Jacobs is all about layers, fringe and movement for spring. Cropped jackets with fringe at the hems paired with sheath dresses embellished with silicone fringe. (Reminds me a bit of Paco Rabanne, who in the 1960s designed a line of clothing using materials such as metal and plastic.) The fringe and iridescent fabrics sway and shine with every movement for a dramatic effect. Sixties style coats – short with sleeves to the elbow – are the signature silhouette. Smart bowling bags and gym totes in fun shades of green and gold. Jacobs wasn’t the only designer to show thin socks with pumps. This is a look that repeats itself season after season, but has yet to translate onto the streets.

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