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Posts Tagged ‘television costuming’

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Photo: Julia Johnson.

I’m always photographing people, I always observe people when I’m traveling. Just looking at what a person has on is like looking at a piece of art to me. My parents are from the South, so I come from texture. I come from velvet at Christmas, seersucker and patent shoes at Easter, suede shoes in the fall. 

Michelle Cole, Emmy-nominated costume designer. Currently she is the CD for the ABC television sitcom, Black-ish.

I want to hang out wherever Ms. Cole does! Where is she seeing these “piece of art” people?

This quote is from a Q&A with Ms. Cole from The Costume Designer: The Official Magazine of the Costume Designers Guild. The focus of the interview was contemporary costuming for television.

 

 

 

 

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IMG_20190102_172442218_HDRFashion is what hangs on a rack. But what’s in your closet, that’s your style. 

Manuel Cuevas – American fashion designer.

Mr. Cuevas immigrated to Los Angles from Mexico in the early 1950s when he got a job making slacks. One day he was lucky enough to meet costumer Edith Head and began costuming Hollywood films and television shows, including Gunsmoke, Bonanza, and The Big Valley. He has also worked with celebrities such as Michael Jackson, Bob Dylan, Prince, David Bowie. and Lady Gaga.

What’s hanging in your closet? Do you feel your clothes reflect who you are? The start of a new year is a good time to consider a new look.

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Vanessa Kirby as Princess Margaret Photo: Harper’s Bazaar

Dressing as Margaret changed my life because it was the first time I went so deep with a character through her fashion choices. She was the girl of Paris, really, always at the Dior and Chanel shows. Costume designer Michele Clapton wanted the clothes to represent Margaret’s internal life. It was about more than being period accurate; her wardrobe had to telegraph what she was feeling and where she was in her journey. For example, the dress she wears when she kisses her forbidden love, Group Captain Peter Townsend , in his office, is off the shoulder and pink chiffon. It’s romantic and free and daring, and it swishes down the corridor as she runs off. 

Vanessa Kirby – British actress. Ms Kirby plays Princess Margaret in the Netflix television series The Crown.

This quote is from an essay in Harper’s Bazaar, August 2018.

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debra-photoThe costume designer dresses somebody from the inside out. We care about what kind of underwear they’re wearing. It’s really important when you’re dressing somebody for a film to kind of think about what they’re wearing after they take their shower; what’s the process; what goes on underneath; what makes sense. And it’s a real internal process. The process of fashion is completely external. It’s disposable. It’s changeable. 

Debra McGuire, Hollywood costume designer.

Ms. McGuire is the go-to costume designer for television. Most recently she has designed for Fresh off the Boat, New Girl, and Speechless. From 1994-2004 her main designing gig was Friends.  She has worked on many a film as well. including Knocked Up and Righteous Kill.

 

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Susan Sarandon as Bette Davis in Feud: Bette and Joan.

I don’t know what we would have done without fabric painting. Since it was too time-consuming to locate the good vintage fabrics and prints, we relied on CADFab digital printing to replicate the fabrics we needed, From Baby Jane’s floral dress to Bette Davis’ 1978 Oscar caftan. 

Katie Saunders – Costume Supervisor on the television limited series, Feud: Bette and Joan.

Ms. Saunders was nominated for an Emmy for her work on Feud.

Congratulations to the winners in the costume categories last night.

Period Series: Michele Clapton – The Crown 

Contemporary Drama: Alix Friedberg, Big Little Lies

Variety/Non-Fiction/Reality: Zaldy Goco, RuPaul’s Drag Race

 

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10-Arjun-Bhasin-IndiaInk-articleInlineSarah Jessica Parker is obviously one of the most stylish people alive. But starting the show was tricky. We tried to ignore her other show entirely and create a new character with a new life. It was exciting for her to reinvent herself into a new person.

Arjun Bhasin, Indian stylist/costume designer.

In this quote (from an article in the San Francisco Chronicle) Mr. Bhasin is referring to his work with SJP on the new HBO series, Divorce.

In addition to the HBO project, the accomplished designer (Life of Pi, Love is Strange, Begin Again) recently costumed Berkeley Repertory’s production of Monsoon Wedding, which by the way has been extended twice and is now running through July 16.

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Sarah Jessica Parker as Frances in Divorce. Opaque tights worn with pumps was not uncommon in the the 1970s.

Back to costuming SJP. What a challenge!There’s a lot of high-stylin’ baggage from that other show – Sex and the City – with the use of big designer labels and major product placement. Bhasin’s approach to this new show was to shift away from all that and go vintage.

Inspired by 1970s divorce films, An Unmarried Woman and Kramer vs. Kramer he hit Etsy and vintage fairs looking for classic silhouettes and soft color palettes. Much of what Bhasin found were in larger sizes. But since he was drawn to the fabric patterns, he and his staff did a lot of altering and playing around with the original pieces to make them fit SJP in size and her character, Frances in mood.

Given that Frances works,  has two children, and is going thorough a (nasty) divorce, Bhasin thought “comfort clothes.” The look he’s created is one of simple elegance; Frances cares about her appearance but she’s not a clotheshorse. Her style is her own and she’s not inclined to follow trends. The hemlines are at the knee, the skirts are full, the dresses are feminine but not frilly. There’s not a lot of fuss – no hats (unless it’s cold), not much jewelry or multiple handbags. Bhasin says that he and SJP want to keep the accessories to a minimum. Frances is a woman who puts on a turquoise silver bracelet and leaves it on.

100716-sjp-divorcedI really like what Bhasin has done with Frances. He’s managed to costume a character with interest while NOT making it all about the clothes. I also appreciate that he reuses pieces, like the two coats Frances wears. Since the costumes are so interesting it’s great to see them more than once.

SJP is such a fashion draw that I imagine women will check out Divorce for the costumes, if nothing else. What I’m curious to see is if these vintage styles will influence street-syle and perhaps even future runways.

 

 

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