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Archive for August, 2023

I took an interest in traditional Korean dress (hanbok) after I attended the San Francisco Asian Art Museum’s exhibition Couture Korea back in 2017. My interest increased the following year when I went on a textiles tour to South Korea. Since then I have made it a personal study, so I was quite excited when the book Dress History of Korea: Critical Perspectives on Primary Sources (Bloomsbury Publishers) came out earlier this year.

Edited by scholars Kyunghee Pyun, Associate Professor at Fashion Institute of Technology and Minjee Kim, research associate at Tracing Patterns Foundation, Dress History of Korea is an anthology divided into two parts.

  • Part One covers the history of Korean dress; changes seen from ancient times to the Joseon Period (1392-1900) to the influence of western clothing in Korea; the primary sources used in study; and the role of magazines in influencing everyday fashion.
  • Part Two discusses Korean dress in museum exhibitions and costume dramas; and the importance of hanbok to Korean identity.

Each essay is written by experts in their field and is accompanied by illustrations and extensive endnotes. At 14 chapters and over 300 pages (including a bibliography and index) Dress History of Korea is densely packed with information and an important contribution to the study of Korean dress history. In fact, this is the only book on the subject written in English.

One of my favorite chapters is Collection and Exhibition of Dress at the Seok Juseon Memorial Museum by Myung-eun Lee. Seok Juseon (1911-1996) was an accomplished seamstress and scholar of traditional Korean dress. After the Korean war in 1953, she started buying hanbok and amassed such a collection over the years that eventually a museum was erected to hold the 3365 items. Lee’s essay discusses Juseon’s career as well as her acquisition methods and the development of the museum built in her honor.

Fashion students, fashion historians, and anyone intrigued by Korean history and traditional culture will find this an accessible and informative read.

(Thank you to Bloomsbury Publishing for providing ODFL with a review copy of Dress History of Korea: Critical Perspectives on Primary Sources.)

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Daesamjak norigae is an ornament that hangs from the closure ribbons of a jacket worn for special ocassions in the late Joeson period (1392-1910). Made of gilt silver, amber, coral, jade, pearls, and silk. Image from Dress History of Korea: Critical Perspective on Primary Sources.

In contemporary society, fashion accessories and jewelry are portable or wearable items of dress culture that attract global consumers and are integrated into wearer’s expression of their personal tastes and desire for an enhanced look. However, wearable ornaments in pre-modern Korea and other East Asian countries were social manifestations of the wearer’s social status and prestige.

Kyeongmi Joo – lecturer in the Department of Archaeology at Chungnam National University in South Korea. This quote is from her essay, Bodily Ornaments in Korean Archaeology and Dress History, which is part of the recently published anthology, Dress History of Korea: Critical Perspective on Primary Sources (Bloomsbury Press).

Check back to tomorrow for my review of this important book.

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This vintage copper butterfly bracelet was part of my mother’s jewelry collection. Not anything really important and not something she wore often. It was too big for me and therefore, I decided to try to sell it last year at the Shadelands Summer Market.

I thought for sure it would sell as it’s mid-century and unusual, but no one even looked at it. I pulled the bracelet out for this year’s Summer Market and it occurred to me that if I were to remove just one butterfly link, this bracelet would fit me perfectly.

Using jeweler’s pliers, I carefully unhooked the middle link and reattached the two bracelet parts and now I have something that I’m really enjoying with summer outfits.

It was meant to be! Thanks, Mom.

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Edith Head with a model in the dress designed by Head for Mae West in the 1933 film, She Done Him Wrong. (Image from the documentary, Edith Head, 1981.)

Be sure, Edith, that the dress is loose enough, because I want people to think I’m a lady, but tight enough to show that I’m a woman.

Actress Mae West (1893-1980) said this to costumer Edith Head (1897-1981).

Edith Head and Mae West worked together on many films. In the 1981 short documentary titled Edith Head, Head says that West was the only actress who came in knowing what she wanted to wear.

August 17th would have been Mae West’s 130th birthday.

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A little hat button with a pop of red is just the right replacement on this summer blouse.

What do you do when you’ve lost a button? Replace it with something more interesting. Replace it with a vintage button.

I’m never too bothered when I lose a button because then I have an excuse to get creative. I dig around in my button piles until I find the perfect unusual replacement. I think it’s fun and it’s certainly unexpected to have one button that doesn’t belong.

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One in six people in the world works in the fashion industry. No one knows this because the majority of them are working-class women of color. In Chicago, Los Angeles, New York, factories will intentionally hire undocumented workers and then not pay them for months. When the workers get upset, management calls ICE and has a self-reported raid of their own factory.

Hoda Katebi – Iranian American writer and activist working to highlight the damage the fashion industry inflicts on the world.

In 2019, Katebi launched Blue Tin Productions, a clothing manufacturer run by working class women of color.

What’s the real cost of fashion? Something to consider when shopping for clothes.

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