Feeds:
Posts
Comments

Posts Tagged ‘vintage fashion’

10-Arjun-Bhasin-IndiaInk-articleInlineSarah Jessica Parker is obviously one of the most stylish people alive. But starting the show was tricky. We tried to ignore her other show entirely and create a new character with a new life. It was exciting for her to reinvent herself into a new person.

Arjun Bhasin, Indian stylist/costume designer.

In this quote (from an article in the San Francisco Chronicle) Mr. Bhasin is referring to his work with SJP on the new HBO series, Divorce.

In addition to the HBO project, the accomplished designer (Life of Pi, Love is Strange, Begin Again) recently costumed Berkeley Repertory’s production of Monsoon Wedding, which by the way has been extended twice and is now running through July 16.

divorce_still_3_embed

Sarah Jessica Parker as Frances in Divorce. Opaque tights worn with pumps was not uncommon in the the 1970s.

Back to costuming SJP. What a challenge!There’s a lot of high-stylin’ baggage from that other show – Sex and the City – with the use of big designer labels and major product placement. Bhasin’s approach to this new show was to shift away from all that and go vintage.

Inspired by 1970s divorce films, An Unmarried Woman and Kramer vs. Kramer he hit Etsy and vintage fairs looking for classic silhouettes and soft color palettes. Much of what Bhasin found were in larger sizes. But since he was drawn to the fabric patterns, he and his staff did a lot of altering and playing around with the original pieces to make them fit SJP in size and her character, Frances in mood.

Given that Frances works,  has two children, and is going thorough a (nasty) divorce, Bhasin thought “comfort clothes.” The look he’s created is one of simple elegance; Frances cares about her appearance but she’s not a clotheshorse. Her style is her own and she’s not inclined to follow trends. The hemlines are at the knee, the skirts are full, the dresses are feminine but not frilly. There’s not a lot of fuss – no hats (unless it’s cold), not much jewelry or multiple handbags. Bhasin says that he and SJP want to keep the accessories to a minimum. Frances is a woman who puts on a turquoise silver bracelet and leaves it on.

100716-sjp-divorcedI really like what Bhasin has done with Frances. He’s managed to costume a character with interest while NOT making it all about the clothes. I also appreciate that he reuses pieces, like the two coats Frances wears. Since the costumes are so interesting it’s great to see them more than once.

SJP is such a fashion draw that I imagine women will check out Divorce for the costumes, if nothing else. What I’m curious to see is if these vintage styles will influence street-syle and perhaps even future runways.

 

 

Advertisements

Read Full Post »

That’s me sporting my custom-made shirtwaist dress by Theresa LaQuey. Photo: James Young

Throwback Thursday. Originally posted on June 23, 2011.

Last October I had a brilliant idea while strolling Fabric Row in Philadelphia. Why not buy some fabric to take home and have a couple of dresses made? What a perfect memento of my visit to Philly.

So that’s what I did. I perused the family run shop Maxie’s Daughter on South 4th Street and chose two cotton fabrics – one with a violet color print and the other a brown/orange print. I knew I wanted shirtwaist dresses I could wear with sandals in the spring/summer and with tights in the autumn.

The middle-aged salesladies with frosted updos and South Philly accents seemed more serious about the upcoming baseball playoffs than fabric. “We’re gonna beat you,” they teased. “OK,” I said. “I have no problem with that.”  Heck, I was a San Francisco visitor with absolutely no attachment to ballgames, I wasn’t going to argue with Phillies fans.

When I returned home, designer Theresa LaQuey sketched a retro shirtwaist dress with buttons down the front and a knee-length hem (very vintage nurses uniform). A few months later, voila … I had dresses that are well made and fit to a T.

Every time I wear them I think of my visit to Philly and those serious Phillies fans. Now, those are dresses with a story.

Read Full Post »

IMG_20170406_180937565

Recognize this hat? It dates back to circa 1857 and was made by hatters Dunlap & Co. The patriotic paint job is thought to have been added in the 1930s. (Perhaps for an Uncle Sam costume?)

IMG_20170406_181414931

Grateful Dead’s first album, 1967.

But it was Jerry Garcia of the Grateful Dead that made this chapeau famous. The story goes that he donned the hat one day for some photos taken at the old Spreckles Mansion. Those photos ended up on the band’s first album cover and after that the hat, for some unremembered reason, became known as The Captain Trips Hat.

Later, Garcia gave it to some friends who owned a boutique on Haight Street. In 2014 it was put up for auction with Christie’s.

What I like about The Captain Trips is the playful patriotism. Creative, fun, and anything but square.

Check back tomorrow for the next pic from The Summer of Love Experience.

 

 

Read Full Post »

IMG_20170406_175756811

This is a suede coat in maroon from 1970. Suede was really popular back then, used for coats, vests, and handbags.

I love the color and the trim fit makes it super chic. The details are sharp – note the tucked shoulders and wide lapels in a contracting neutral color.

The coat is paired with what was called at the time, decorated denim. It was the done thing to piece together various denim swatches creating a new look. Beads, patches, and embroidery were also used. The pant leg hems are left raw, which is a trend happening today, as is decorated denim but we’re calling it embellished.

One of the aspects of fashion that I’m attracted to in this era is the use of vintage. There was a mixing up of styles from past decades including the 1920s, as we see here with the cloche hat. I like the creativity and uniqueness of combining modern with vintage.

Come back tomorrow for another favorite look from The Summer of Love Experience: Art, Fashion, and Rock & Roll.

 

Read Full Post »

img_20161125_125030291

Miss Rosie Lea. Photo: David Morley.

Vintage style is timeless, feminine and completely open to your own interpretation. It celebrates women of all ages, shapes and sizes in a way that fashion houses just don’t.

– Miss Rosie Lea, British vintage model.

This quote is from an article by Miss Lea in Vintage Life magazine, October 2016.

Well put! But I would add that it’s a good idea to mix vintage up a bit. By combining eras and even adding a touch of modern we create more interest and keep it fresh for a truly timeless look.

Read Full Post »

Chesterfield is around 150 miles north of London. A scenic two hour train ride. We spent a day and night there on our way back south to London from Bakewell.

The town center has a large flea market every Thursday. There you can find all kinds of objects to buy: hardware, silver, books, clothing, jewelry. I was partial to the silver as I have a thing for spoons!

While perusing the market in the rain, I spotted a little shop across the square with a big sign – Ooo La La Vintage Clothing. You bet I hopped right on over.

img_20161020_151237314

Sara Bennett from Ooo La La in Chesterfield, England.

Proprietor Sara Bennett has collected and nicely displayed quality vintage clothing and accessories, mostly 30s to 60s. I was impressed with the array of  Italian mohair and Danish “Sarah Lund” sweaters. Hers is the only vintage shop in town but she says vintage is a growing local interest. (Once a year the market hosts a 1940s festival where everyone turns out in vintage of the era and enjoys live music, dancing, and classic cars.)

Sara’s customers lean toward the 50s, which makes me think of Vintage Life magazine a UK based publication. Sara tells me she follows VL on Facebook. I think VL needs to follow Ooo La La.

Thank you, Sara. Nice to have met you!

 

Read Full Post »

Bonnie Cashin in 1957.I was wearing boots long before they became popular. I used to buy Haymarket boots in London, regular riding ones. Now that everyone is wearing them, I have a quarrel with the shoemakers. I love things that work but today’s boots don’t work. They let the water in. A boot should be waterproof. I keep telling them.

– Bonnie Cashin (1915-2000), American fashion designer.

Yes! Waterproof! I recall a nasty pair of boots I had as a kid (maybe 8) that let the rain water seep in. Not fun but a thing of the past. It seems the shoemakers did listen to Ms. Cashin.

She made this comment in 1970, when boots were first hitting their stride among the fashionables. Then they went out of fashion for awhile and came back to stay sometime in the 1990s.

Now that it’s officially autumn, boots are out and about. Have you noticed? It seems every style is in, but particularly ankle boots and over the knee.

By the way, September 28th would have been Ms. Cashin’s 101st birthday. Happy Birthday to the first woman of boots!

Read Full Post »

Older Posts »