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Archive for May, 2024

On a recent Thursday evening, I popped into Macy’s Union Square in Downtown San Francisco. (Sadly, one of the Macy’s stores slated for closure.) As I pushed the heavy glass doors and made my way to the escalator, I immediately noticed how eerily empty the store was. Soon I spotted one person, then another, then two women buying shoes, but that’s not what it should have been. What it used to be.

Although the store looked good, bright lights and shinny new products, there was decidedly an odd vibe.

Perusing the handbags, I was startled by an agitated female voice busting through the background music, “Don’t touch me,” she yelled. I looked up and saw a woman escorted by a security guard headed toward the exit doors.

It’s been a while since I crossed the threshold of SF Macy’s, but back in the day I was a regular. This was my go-to department store as a high school student. Already interested in fashion and developing my own style, I bought shoes, nylons, dresses for the annual Christmas dance, and makeup at Macy’s. At least once a week, I’d take the bus Downtown and with crowds of other shoppers I’d enter Macy’s on Stockton Street. Once in, I’d take a whiff of the blended expensive perfumes and feel a rush of excitement. What stylish treasure will come home with me today? I even worked at Macy’s for a few weeks one summer ironing some of the clothing before it went out onto the salesfloor.

After I watched the agitated woman leave the store, I went up to the third floor to find a swimsuit. Once again it was pretty empty, except for a couple of saleswomen who were chatting and not at all interested in asking if I needed help. The collection of suits to choose from was minimal, but I found a few and asked where the fitting rooms were and this is where it got interesting.

The women pointed. “Over there,” one of them said. I approached three ratty looking doors. There was a woman waiting in line and I asked her if she’d been waiting long. She nodded. I was surprised there was no salesperson monitoring the rooms. “Are you sure all three rooms are taken?” I asked. Again she said nothing, but approached one room and knocked. No response so she tried to open it. Locked. She knocked on another door; a woman said something I couldn’t make out and it didn’t sound to me like she was trying things on.

I shook my head. No no. This is not right.

I returned to the saleswomen, who hadn’t moved an inch, and explained about the locked door. “Oh no. That one is dirty. We don’t even want you to see it.”

What? Don’t want us to see it? This shopping trip was getting even more surreal, not to mention unpleasant. I went back to the fitting rooms, hung the swimsuits on the rack with other rejected items and headed for the escalator down to the first floor where I made a beeline for the exit.

Macy’s is not what it used to be. Shopping is not what it was. And I’m feeling sad for the loss of something that I thought would always be there.

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Photo by Lara Jameson on Pexels.com

I find the best-dressed people are the uniform dressers. They’ve branded themselves aesthetically, and I think that’s what makes people’s style strong, unique, and personal.

Tyler Joe – staff photographer for Hearst publications.

I agree! Creating a signature look (a uniform) is exactly what style is all about. Even just one signature element to an outfit – a scarf, a hat, a collection of brooches worn on the shoulder – can be the distinguishing feature to one’s outfits. I once knew a woman who taught museum studies and she was known for her armful of silver cuff bracelets. She must have had about a dozen or so and she wore them every day on her left arm. That was her signature look and it was all her. No one else could pull it off.

What’s your signature look?

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When an item of clothing enters our collection, its status is changed irrevocably. What was once a vital part of a person’s lived experience is now a motionless ‘artwork’ that can no longer be worn or heard, touched, or smelled. The exhibition endeavors to reanimate these artworks by re-awakening their sensory capacities through a diverse range of technologies, affording visitors sensorial ‘access’ to rare historical garments and rarefied contemporary fashions. By appealing to the widest possible range of human senses, the show aims to reconnect with the works on display as they were originally intended—with vibrancy, with dynamism, and ultimately with life.

Andrew Bolton, Curator in Charge, The Costume Institute.

Mr. Bolton is speaking about Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion, the current exhibition on at The Costume Institute.

And of course today is the first Monday in May, which means … it’s the day of the Met Gala!

The Met Gala has become way too much of a circus for me, even just visually. Every year it’s more and more extreme and outrageous. Last year actor Jared Leto showed up in a giant white cat suit (a nod to Karl Lagerfeld’s cat). Yes it was amusing, but why can’t we just stick to beautiful clothes? All this unnecessary spectacle takes away from what should be the focus.

The Upside-Down Rose Hat by Philip Treacy is part of Sleeping Beauties. Photo: Steven Meisel.

As for the exhibit, the descriptions are somewhat complicated yet intriguing. According to an article in Vogue (May, 2024), Sleeping Beauties is featuring only clothing from The Costume Institute’s own collection (of 33,000) and 75 pieces are new acquisitions, including a gown by Christian Dior and a headpiece by Philip Treacy. Using technology, some of the oldest and most fragile pieces in the collection will be “reanimated” and presented in such a way as to give the viewer a feel for how the garment was worn – in what environment, how did the wearer stand, what scents were in the room.

The idea behind Sleeping Beauties is that attendees will have an immersive experience that will include not just sight, but also sound, touch, and smell.

One of the consultants hired for the exhibition is Sissel Tolaas, a chemist and expert on scents. She has spent the last year studying the fragrances connected to garments included in the exhibition. Apparently, attendees will be able to catch a whiff of the “fragrance elements” associated with the various garments on display, not just perfume but the body of the wearer “her habits, her culture, her rituals, the foods she ate,” explains Tolaas.

Does this pique your interest? Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion is on May 10 through September 2, 2024 at The Costume Institute in New York City.

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