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Archive for June, 2020

magsOn social media, fashion executives have expressed their solidarity for Black lives by posting black squares and sharing PR statements promising to do better on behalf of their companies. But how much value do these promises hold when Black interns at a prominent fashion magazine have yet to see themselves represented at all levels of the masthead?  

… Tokenism cannot be the antidote to racism and lack of representation in the workplace. In addition to hiring Black people, structural transformation must also be implemented to support and make way for upward mobility. It’s never been enough to sprinkle us on covers or on runways; there needs to be a pipeline in place that allows for Black talent to graduate to leadership roles. Because of systemic barriers in place, we are often beset with a premature disillusionment with the industry, questioning our place and purpose.

Jasmine Burgos, Abigail Cherubin, & Christopher Akintonde – Former fashion magazine interns.

This quote is from an op-ed in Business of Fashion. Click here for the full piece.

I have wondered about all the recent social media statements by corporations. How meaningful are they? Perhaps it’s a place to start but, I agree that real change has to happen beyond mere statements.

Harper’s Bazaar has appointed their first Black editor. Samira Nasr steps into the role in July. It’s an interesting time for her, for the fashion industry, for the world.

Here’s hoping we are finally inspired to do better.

 

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One of the assignments in the fashion history class I recently completed was to find historical fashion references in current fashion. In magazines I looked for examples covering ancient clothing to the 20th century and matched with historical images from books, plus I had to write a comment.

Over the next weeks I’m sharing what I found.

 

This week’s historical influence is the Doric Chiton.

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I’m inspired by the simplicity of the Ancient Greek Doric Chiton. I wear long dresses and skirts in summer at home and I find they are cool and comfortable, but not sloppy in certain fabrics. A cotton weave is best.

Clothing in ancient cultures were draped and folded, tied or attached by a T-shape pin called a “peplos pin.”

It’s hard to read my comment above but the modern dress is by Prada, spring 2020. The basic silhouette and ties at the shoulders speak Doric Chiton to me.

Tune in next week for another post on Finding Historical Fashion Today.

 

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All matched up for when I have to go out and about this summer.

I did it! Yes, I did! I made a skirt with a matching handbag and a matching mask.

I had been thinking about it since the start of the pandemic. I kept imagining that if I were a designer, I would come up with masks to match everything. Well, I am my own designer.

All the materials I had on hand, so no going out!

The cotton fabric, from Stonemountain and Daughter in Berkeley, was sitting around waiting for a project. The skirt pattern is a simple a-line by Simplicity. Funny, I’ve used this pattern before but not the same way twice. For me, simple patterns are becoming like recipes – a place to start, but I end up doing my own thing.

I had the bamboo handles for another project that didn’t work out. I just cut the fabric size I wanted for a handbag and stitched it, but I used the reverse side of the fabric to mix it up a bit. For the mask I used a pattern by Sew Becoming.

I’ve made a couple of matching skirts and handbags so adding a mask was the next step.

It’s possible that masks are going to be around for quite a while, let’s make them fashionable and  fun!

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Orla Kiely’s iconic pattern called Stem.

Fashion is both fascinating and contradictory. It creates trends and follows them, it welcomes and rejects; it judges. I love the fact that I am a part of it but I also relish the knowledge that my design language is different. I can be an outsider. Incapable of following trends just for the sake of it, I’m not in the business of reinventing myself to be this year’s sensation. My need is to feel both inspired and satisfied by what I achieve. I do my own thing. I love fashion but I would never want to be its slave. 

Orla Kiely – Irish born fabric pattern and fashion designer.

This quote is from an article about Ms. Kiely in Selvedge magazine, a British publication covering “The Fabric of your Life: Textiles in Fashion, Fine Art, Interiors, Travel, and Shopping.” Each issue has a theme and this one is Britannia (Issue 40 May/June 2011).

I like what Ms. Kiely says here and I believe there are many ways to live fashion. She and I share a desire for independence.  I’m not into trends or brands or what I call corporate fashion. Still, I follow it all and forge my own path.

Here’s to independent spirits in fashion!

 

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One of the assignments in the fashion history class I recently completed was to find historical fashion references in current fashion. In magazines I looked for examples covering ancient clothing to the 20th century and matched with historical images from books, plus I had to write a comment.

I hopped right on it and started looking when the class began in January and it took me pretty much the whole semester. It wasn’t something you could get done in one sitting (I think that some of the other students might have tried). It was old-school cut and paste and I really had fun with it.

I’m going to share my findings with ODFL readers over the next weeks. First up is the Schenti:

FH1

Tune in again next week.

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samiraGreat style is about more than the way we wear our clothes. It is also how we see and occupy space in the world around us.

Samira Nasr, the next editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar.

Last week Hearst Magazines announced that Samira Nasr will take the reigns from Glenda Bailey, who had been the HB editor for 19 years.

Ms. Nasr is the first Black woman to be appointed to such a position in the magazine’s 153 year history. She started her fashion career as an assistant to Grace Coddington at Vogue and she also worked for a time as fashion director for Elle. Most recently Ms. Nasr was the fashion director at Vanity Fair.

Ms. Bailey steps down at HB but she will still walk the hallways of Hearst headquarters working as “global consultant” which, as I understand it, means she will connect (make deals?) fashion marketers with Hearst magazine editors.

Congratulations to Ms. Nasr! As a subscriber to HB, I look forward to something new and exciting.

Farewell to Ms. Bailey, who kept HB alive and thriving during some really challenging times in magazine publishing.

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Meg Ryan in You’ve Got Mail.

 

Number three on my list of Favorite Go-to Films is: You’ve Got Mail starring Tom Hanks and Meg Ryan (1998).

It’s the story of two book store owners – Joe Fox, who owns the mega-chain Fox Books and Kathleen Kennedy, proprietor of the children’s book store Shop Around the Corner. The two have found each other online (a very novel concept in the late 90s) but they also know – and dislike – each other in person. The thing is they don’t know the online people are also the in-person people. And then there’s the problem of Joe putting Kathleen out of business.  Directed by Nora Ephronand based on the 1940 film Shop The Around the Corner with Jimmy Stewart and Margaret Sullavan, You’ve Got Mail is oh-so-charming and quite funny.

OK, so the costumes aren’t showy in this romantic comedy, but they are certainly of the era and appropriate for the characters. Costume designer Albert Wolsky says that he was striving for a studious look for Kathleen. Covering four seasons in the Upper West Side of New York City, we see Kathleen in jumpers and opaque tights, skirts with Oxford shirts, khaki slacks paired with a white t-shirt and a grey cardigan. Colors are muted and the silhouettes are simple. Wolsky says that Kathleen is not a fashion plate. Kathleen’s dress in the final scene is a Marc Jacobs and the only designer brand used.

It’s rare for me to have extended laugh-out-loud moments while watching movies, but co-stars Parker Posey (Joe’s self-focused girlfriend) and Dave Chappelle (Joe’s business assistant) are hilarious in just a few brief scenes. I enjoy these actors and I always rewind their scenes for the laughs. Dabney Coleman as Joe’s cad-of-a-father is also pretty funny as is Jean Stapleton, Kathleen’s spirit-guided accountant.

We’ve got charm, humor, books, and gorgeous NYC street scenes. What’s not to like?

 

 

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The Tear Dress by Elsa Schiaparelli.

 

In difficult times fashion is always outrageous. 

Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973), Italian born fashion designer.

Schiaparelli is my favorite designer of all time. Known for her collaboration with Surreal artist Salvador Dali, Schiaparelli designs were unique and fanciful and very much of the Art Deco era.  She turned the shape of a shoe into a hat and circus animals became buttons.

In this quote I wonder if Schiaparelli means that the idea of fashion during challenging times is outrageous. Or is she saying that fashion itself is (or should be) outrageous during such times.

Let’s go with the latter, and if it’s true then 2020 should see some extreme fashion, like the Schiaparelli dress pictured above. The Tear dress was part of the designer’s Circus Collection for summer 1938. The printed image on the delicate fabric is of cut skin reveling dark red blood underneath. There are actual slashes in the mantle worn over the head (pictured above left), which reminds me of the popularity of slashed fabrics during the 16th century.

Judith Watt says of the dress in her book Vogue on Elsa Schiaparelli (Quadrille Publishing, 2012), “The Tear dress remains a singularly hostile work … Taken out of political context in which General Franco was to seize complete power in Spain and Hitler was poised to annex Czechoslovakia and Austria, its meaning and impact is lost.”

Hostile garb for hostile times. What do we wear to reflect our current state of outrage?

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I wear my mask. What does yours look like?

People need to wear masks; they need to social distance. They need to be rigorous and responsible about this. This is not something to be taken casually or lightly … You could kill people or you could be killed yourself. 

Tim Gunn, fashion icon and host of Project Runway and Making the Cut. Gunn was recently on the radio interview show, Fresh Air with Terry Gross.

Everyone’s favorite fashion icon, Gunn shared what he’s been wearing while sheltering-in-place: sometimes pajama bottoms with a plain white t-shirt and a navy blue robe, but he says he would never step outside his NYC front door in such a casual ensemble. When he goes out to the corner store he wears a turtleneck sweater and dark wash jeans. For Zoom meetings he dons a sport coat and tie.

Gross asked if he wore a fashionable mask and he explained that he didn’t want to bother with having to consider colors or pattern. A plain medical mask goes with everything.

Good point, although, I have to admit that if I were a fashion designer I’d be working on a line of matching mask and skirt/dress/pants/jacket.

Yep, I’d be all over that! Because Covid-19 isn’t going away anytime soon and therefore, neither are masks.

 

 

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