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Archive for August, 2017

Fashionable Quote of the Week by Alessandro Michele

Posted in Events, Fashion, Uncategorized, Vintage, tagged , , , , , on August 28, 2017| Leave a Comment »

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Photo: Alexi Lubomirski for Harper’s Bazaar, August 2017. 

I like it when I see people dressed on the street and it looks like Gucci but it’s not. It means you are doing something right. If you want to go to the store, that’s fine. If you want to go to the market that’s much better. Or if you want to buy just a pair of shoes and then you want to go to the market, it’s better than better. 

Alessandro Michele, Italian designer for Gucci.

A great message – mix it up. Expensive with inexpensive – vintage with modern – brand with no-name. Get creative!

Speaking of designers, fashion week is coming up in NYC September 7-13, 2017.

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Gatsby Summer Afternoon: The Vintage Experience Event of the Year

Posted in Events, Fashion, Uncategorized, Vintage, tagged , , , , , on August 23, 2017| 1 Comment »

IMG_20170818_171632286Just about this time of year I feel the pending shift of seasons from summer to fall and I start thinking ahead to Gatsby Summer Afternoon, always held on the second Sunday in September.

I enjoy conjuring past images of the Dunsmuir Hellman mansion surrounded by hundreds of ladies and gentlemen dressed in their Art Deco garden party finest from the 20s to the 30s. Blankets on the grass topped with baskets of food. Tables adorned with fresh flowers and champagne coupes. Classic cars shinning brightly in the sun while vintage dance tunes echo all around us. That’s the splendor of Gatsby Summer Afternoon.

This signature event of the Art Deco Society of California attracts over 1000 people every year. A time travel experience, attendees are expected to participate by dressing Art Deco and keeping to the spirit of the era with period style food and picnic site accessories. And there are prizes for those who do it well!

IMG_20170807_161957720Planning my outfit I’m channeling Daisy Buchanan with a floppy hat and flouncy dress in mauve. The hat belongs to Mom – she’ll be so happy I’m wearing it. I have a 1920s beaded handbag that was my grandmother’s and it pairs nicely with my cream colored Oxford shoes by Amalfi. A big thank you to Paula Aiello from Sew Becoming for the lovely dress.

On tap for the day is:

  • Don Neeley’s Royal Society Jazz Orchestra with vocalist Carla Normand
  • The Decobells Dance Review
  • Grand Motorcar Exhibit
  • Wine Tasting
  • Specialty Cocktails
  • Dunsmuir House Tour
  • Croquet Lessons
  • Prizes for Best Costume, Best Picnic Site, Best Charleston

Plus a whole lot of visiting with like-minded people!

Interested? New to the event? The ADSC makes it easy by providing helpful tips. Not sure what to wear? Forgot an accessory? Not to worry. Onsite will be Jay Gatsby Costume Closet where appropriate items are available to rent for the day.

Gatsby Summer Afternoon. Sunday, September 10, 2017, 1-6. Dunsmuir Hellman Historic Estate, 2960 Peralta Oaks Court, Oakland, CA. Tickets are still available but they do sell out, so don’t dawdle.

Come on old sport, join us!

 

 

 

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Fashionable Quote of the Week by Jock Peters

Posted in Arts, Fashion, Uncategorized, Vintage, tagged , , , , , , , on August 21, 2017| 1 Comment »

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The (tarnished) copper and terracotta tower of Bullocks Wilshire, meant to be seen far and wide.

Art of every kind has a double job to do. First, it must be pleasing in itself. Second, it must present a faithful picture of the times in which it was produced. Good art – the kind of art that lasts for ages – always does just this. It invariably mirrors life as it is being lived. Through the art that is being produced today, future generations will come to know us. 

Jock Peters (1889-1943), Danish born architect.

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I found this quote in Bullocks Wilshire, a book by Margaret Leslie Davis which tells the tale of the impressive Art Deco building built in 1929 to house the upscale department store Bullocks Wilshire (pictured above).

Mr. Peters was the interior designer for the building and I would say that he certainly created an environment that reflects the aesthetics and values of his time.

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Art Deco elevators doors on the first floor.

Located on Wilshire Boulevard in Los Angeles, the famous department store had to have been the most fabulous of shopping experiences back in the day. Five floors of impeccable Art Deco design with attention to detail using materials including marble, copper, brass, crystal, and all kinds of exquisite wood. Murals inside and out by artists of the day reflected the building’s overall theme of transportation and commerce.

There was the Tea Room, the Studio of Beauty, a lounge for the ladies and a smoking room for the gents. Each department had a different Art Deco clock. Hollywood costume designer Irene sold exclusively at Bullocks Wilshire in her own department. Clark Gable bought his riding gear in the Saddle Shop. Angela Landsbury worked at the cosmetics counter before her big break in the movies.

Over the years, the building’s interior changed as styles changed. Things were covered up and painted over. Bullocks, Inc. which owned and operated several stores, merged with San Francisco’s I. Magnin in 1944. Many years later Federated Department Stores took over and then, sadly, in 1993 Bullocks Wilshire closed thanks in part to shifts in the immediate neighborhood and a decline in retail sales. The building remained unoccupied until Southwestern Law School purchased it in 1994 and immediately started a complete renovation.

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One of the many Bullocks Wilshire clocks.

On a recent visit to Los Angeles I was lucky enough to take a tour and I tip my hat to Southwestern Law School for their dedication to and appreciation of the beauty and integrity of this amazing historical structure.

 

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That’s me! In the Louis XVI Room,  which was designed to feel like Marie Antoinette’s boudoir.  This was one of two “period” rooms where ladies sat comfortably while mannequins modeled the latest fashions. There were no racks of clothing back then. Perish the thought!

Have I piqued your interest? Would you like to take a look-see yourself?  The building is not open to the public on a daily basis but twice a year in the summer there are tours. Click here for details. 

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What to Wear to a Hate Rally

Posted in Events, Fashion, Uncategorized, Vintage, tagged , , , , , , , on August 17, 2017| 1 Comment »

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Vanguard America sport a new look. The guy in the middle is James Fields, who was recently charged with murder for running over a group of peaceful protesters in Charlottesville, VA. Photo:  Go Nakamura/New York Daily News

It seems white nationalists, Vanguard America in particular, have adopted for themselves a new uniform – khakis and polo shirts. According to several reports that was the prevailing outfit last weekend as these people descended upon the University of Virginia in Charlottesville.

If someone says “white nationalists” I picture angry white men in well-worn jeans and heavy work boots, t-shirts with the Confederate flag or some offensive slogan, maybe a swastika. So it was startling to see in photos the once preppy look usurped by fringe hate groups.

It speaks volumes:

  • They’re not hiding their identity like previous generations of hate groups such as the KKK. They’re feeling comfortable with their racism.
  • They want to blend in and identify with the oh-so-many fellas out there who sport the same look – the golfer, the suburban dad, the middle manager, the Every Man.
  • These men want to appear mainstream, clean-cut, NORMAL.

 

If this continues the look will no doubt be tainted if it’s not already. I couldn’t help but think about the thugs in Charlottesville when the other day a man crossed my path sporting a white polo shirt and khakis. Probably on his way to work, the guy I’m sure was unaware of the association I made with his outfit. How funny is it that a week earlier I wouldn’t have even noticed him.

I say this must stop. Come on Levis, The Gap and any brand that makes khakis – like the makers of the Tiki torch you have to disavow yourselves from the alt-right. Same goes for polo shirt brands. Lacoste. Ralph Lauren. Do you want to be associated with hatred and violence?

Speak up!

 

 

 

 

 

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The Last Tycoon on Amazon

Posted in Arts, Events, Fashion, Uncategorized, Vintage, tagged , , , , , on August 16, 2017| Leave a Comment »

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Matt Bomer and Lily Collins in The Last Tycoon.

Who’s watching The Last Tycoon on Amazon? I have only seen the pilot but I’m hooked.

It seems there’s a run on period series lately. It started with Mad Men then Downton Abbey, The Crown, The Feud, Outlander … did I miss any?

Those of us who love all fashions vintage are thrilled to be able immerse ourselves in the fabulous costuming of these series – finding endless sources of inspiration for our own creations.

Costumer for The Last Tycoon is Janie Bryant, who reached commercial success with her work on Mad Men. She tells WWD that after eight years on that show she was ready for something different. Another era will do!

She says:

Everything about the Thirties is so different from the architectural, minimalist Sixties. The cuts, the parts of the body that are accentuated, the color palette. The Thirties is about being very soft and dusty, and silk charmeuse-y. Really, it is about the facade of Hollywood that the studios created, and all of the glamour that entails. They made sure the actors were untouchable.

The Last Tycoon is based loosely on F. Scott Fitzgerald’s unfinished novel set in 1930s Hollywood. Bring on the glamour, the hats, the gloves, the impeccably dressed characters from movie moguls to stagehands to homeless Okies. I always enjoy seeing how poor people are costumed in period pieces. It must be a challenge as such people sported cheaper and slightly outdated versions of what the upper-classes wore. So any costumer has to strike a balance of a character trying to look their best with shabby clothing. There are interesting nuances to convey.

For the upper-crust main characters, Ms. Bryant was inspired by Hollywood stars of the era, such as Myrna Loy, Clark Gable, Ginger Rogers, and Fred Astaire.

The costumes in The Last Tycoon are a visual treat. In particular Lily Collins – Phil Collins daughter – who plays Celia Brady is well suited to the 1930s, with a trim figure perfect for knit dresses and big eyes with full brows, which cannot be hidden under those adorable small hats of the era.

Ms. Collins is no stranger to the show’s sets. She tells WWD that Greystone Mansion (used as her character’s family home) was a childhood playhouse since her mother was quite active in historical building preservation. I was happy to see featured the Biltmore Hotel as I stayed there for the first time on a recent visit to LA. It is quite the period building (opened in 1923) with grand ballrooms, marble columns, murals, and a fabulous tile-lined pool. Indeed the Biltmore was one of the original venues for the Academy Awards.

Now that I’m all about The Last Tycoon, I want to see the 1976 version with Robert De Niero, costumes by Anna Hill Johnstone who also costumed The Godfather, Ragtime, and Dog Day Afternoon. She was nominated for two Academy Awards.

Time for a little compare and contrast.

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Fashionable Quote of the Week by Sarah Owen

Posted in Fashion, Uncategorized, tagged , , , , on August 14, 2017| Leave a Comment »

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Ugliest handbag ever and among the most expensive. No wonder we’re looking elsewhere for the idea of luxury. (Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton.)

Posting a photo of a designer handbag is no longer associated with the changing notion of luxury. What is considered to be a luxury today is time and travel, it’s wellness and well-cultured individuals. That’s the new currency.

Sarah Owen, senior editor and trend forecaster, WGSN.

I’ve always said that the ultimate luxury is time.

Ms. Owen is speaking about blogging trends. Many bloggers are now covering more than one subject. As millennials lean away from consumerism and toward experience, bloggers are giving up the focus on things (fashion) and posting more often on lifestyle topics such as cooking, parenting, travel, and health.

Readers are tired of daily fashion selfies and are more interested in posts about how bloggers are spending their time. It’s not about the stuff anymore … it’s about our story.

 

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Degas, Impressionism, and the Paris Millinery Trade: Exhibit now on at the Legion of Honor

Posted in Arts, Events, Fashion, Uncategorized, tagged , , , , , , on August 8, 2017| 5 Comments »

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Degas, The Milliners. 1882.

For those of us who love our hats the current exhibit on at the Legion of Honor in San Francisco is a must see.

Degas, Impressionism, and the Paris Millinery Trade is an exploration of hats in Paris reflected in the works of Impressionists including Degas, who himself came from a fashion oriented family, Renoir, Cassatt, Manet, and Toulouse-Lautrec among others.

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Degas, Portrait of Zacharian. 1885.

Each of these artists took an interest in the making of hats and the women who wore them. Among the 40 works of art are images of milliners at work, hat shops, and women in conversation donning spectacular chapeaux often draped in ribbons or topped with colorful plumes. But what about les hommes? They are represented as well looking oh so dashing in top hats, bowlers, and boaters too.

The array of paintings come from Musée d’Orsay, the Art Institute of Chicago, the J. Paul Getty Museum, the St. Louis Museum of Art and the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco.

Hats were an essential accessory at the time for both men and women. Business was booming with 1000 milliners working in the city of Paris during the hat’s peak, 1875-1914. The hats themselves were glamorous as were the ladies who wore them, but for the milliners and shop girls life was hard work and long hours – a part of the story Degas in particular wanted to tell.

Degas_MKT_38I liked seeing the large and beautiful posters of the era by Toulouse-Lautrec, selling products with ladies in hats. In each room there are also display cases of hats. A collection of 40, including boaters and bonnets, bowlers and everyone’s favorite – the Picture Hat, which has a very large brim and is often adorned with lace, silk flowers, feathers, birds, you name it!

The exhibit is a manageable size allowing for a second walk-around, if desired.  The day I visited I was a little taken aback by what I fear might be a growing trend in museums – selfies and photos of oneself taken by another.

There was an older woman all dolled up in a hat, who asked other attendees to take a photo of her in front of EVERY SINGLE piece of work in the exhibit. My friend and I were looking at one painting when this woman walked right in front of us and stood by the piece, posing for a photo completely oblivious to our presence. A group of young girls were darting around taking selfies in front various works. It was an interruption to our experience and I have to wonder if these photo-hounds have any real interest in art.

I understand that museums are trying to appeal to everyone and apparently allowing selfies is one way to get people in the door, but at what cost? I think we have a problem when it becomes all about the viewer and the art is simply a background for someone’s photo.

That aside, as an appreciator of art and museums, and one mad woman for hats, I thoroughly enjoyed this exhibit.

Degas, Impressionism, and the Paris Millinery Trade on now through September 24, 2017 at the Legion of Honor in San Francisco.

Click here for more details.

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Fashionable Quote of the Week by Stephen Kolb

Posted in Fashion, Uncategorized, tagged , , , on August 7, 2017| Leave a Comment »

2015+CFDA+Fashion+Awards+Inside+Arrivals+6V1kLrU1U9bxWe are a country of immigrants and fashion is an industry built on skill. These skills easily translate regardless a person’s language or homeland. In order to continue the U.S.’s success and influence in the fashion industry, we must recruit the best talent from all over the world. If the United States wants to lead the world in fashion innovation, we need immigration policies that embrace the talented foreigners who come here to build and grow.

Steven Kolb, CEO of Council of Fashion Designers of America

This quote was taken from the article, “U.S. Garment Production Wouldn’t be a Thing Without Immigrants” on the Fashionista website.

What Mr. Kolb says reminds me of an interview I did with a local fashion designer. She is the rare designer that manufactures her clothing in the US.

My interviewee told me that among the few clothing manufactures left in our country, most of the employees are immigrants.

Why? Because Americans don’t have the needed skills.

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Fashionable Breaking News: J.C. Penney Partners with Project Runway

Posted in Events, Fashion, Uncategorized, tagged , on August 3, 2017| Leave a Comment »

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J.C. Penny, which has suffered more than most in the current bad retail climate is hooking up with Project Runway. Smart move! I wonder if their stock went up after the announcement.

Despite the unforgettably lousy Season 14 the Project Runway brand still holds some cachet, from which J.C. Penney hopes to benefit. The new season starts August 17th but looks from last season are available in Penney’s now.  The store will sponsor two challenges and make the winners’ designs available exclusively and immediately in select doors and online. Plus there will be a Project Runway clothing line available year round. The hope is that this will revamp the women’s contemporary clothing department and show that the retail store can handle Fast Fashion (like we need more of that).

As with other past collaborations, in the show there will be the J.C. Penney Accessories Wall used by the designers to style their models for the runway shows.

Just FYI – included in the designer lineup for Season 16 are two locals – from San Francisco and Oakland.

I actually prefer PR Junior (more talent, less attitude) but I’m giving the original another chance. Looking forward to it!

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