Happy Halloween!
Make sure to celebrate in style.
Posted in Arts, Events, Fashion, Uncategorized, Vintage, tagged black cats, Halloween, Halloween costumes, Halloween fashions, stylish Halloween, vintage fashion, vintage Halloween, vintage style on October 29, 2021| Leave a Comment »
Posted in Arts, Events, Fashion, Uncategorized, Vintage, tagged fashion books, fashion history, Lucy Adlington, seamstresses, sewing, The Dressmakers of Auschwitz, The Red Ribbon, vintage fashion, vintage style, World War II fashion, World War II history on October 19, 2021| 1 Comment »
Author Lucy Adlington first read about the fashion salon at Auschwitz while researching the Nazis and the fashion industry. The idea of Jewish women, skilled seamstresses, forced to make clothing for the very people who were in fact killing them, has to be, as Ms. Adlington said in one of her recent online presentations, “one of the most grotesques anomalies ever.” She explains that she tried to find out more but only had nicknames for the women of the salon and she reached a dead-end. But her mind was whirling with what it must have been like working in the Auschwitz fashion salon. So she wrote a novel, The Red Ribbon (Hot Key Books). After the worldwide publication of her book in 2017, the emails started to arrive: My aunt was a dressmaker in the fashion salon at Auschwitz … my mother … my grandmother …
Connections were made, interviews happened, and Ms. Adlington was finally able to write the true story of Marta, Irene, Renee, Bracha, Katka, and Hunya; just six of the twenty-five women who created beautiful clothing for SS wives.
In The Dressmakers of Auschwitz: The True Story of the Women Who Sewed to Survive, Ms. Adlington weaves the stories of our heroines, some who knew each other before the war and all accomplished seamstresses (Marta was a master cutter and Hunya had once owned her own fashion salon) with the broader context of the war and more specifically the fashion industry just before and during the war.
The fashion salon at Auschwitz, called The Upper Tailoring Studio, was the idea of Hedwig Hoss, the camp commandant’s wife. She, like most other SS wives, appreciated fine clothing and that was something hard to come by at the time since the SS had completely decimated the fashion industry, largely run by Jewish people, in every country they occupied. Marta was the first seamstress to start making clothing for Hedwig and as other SS wives also wanted bespoke clothing, Marta insisted that she needed help and so one by one she was able to save twenty-five women from hard labor and probably death.
In telling this story, Ms. Adlington is also pointing out the value of clothing – clothing as identity, as historical documentation, as memento, as comfort. When people first arrived at Auschwitz, they were forced to strip down to nothing. Every last stitch of clothing removed and put into a big pile. The SS knew what they were doing – take away identity, take away the familiar, take away dignity. Most of the work at Auschwitz was hard manual labor, like tearing down brick buildings, but some of the work was less physical, yet no less harrowing. One of the jobs was to sort through the clothing of the newly arrived. Digging through coats, dresses, shoes, even undergarments of people who were likely dead. One young woman found clothing that had belonged to her sister.
So what was done with all this clothing? After it was sorted into categories, the SS wives chose what they wanted and sent the pieces to The Upper Tailoring Studio for alterations. Some of it was sent to Germany to be sold (sold!) while the more tattered items were moved to another camp where slave labor wove the fabric into rugs. Shoes were repaired, if necessary, and also sent on to Germany. (While many camp laborers had no shoes or wore wood clogs that didn’t fit.)
The Dressmakers of Auschwitz is full of disturbing facts like these I mention and for me it was slow going, as I just couldn’t take too much in one sitting. But I appreciate knowing the story of these remarkable, courageous women as well as the central role clothing had in the Holocaust. The photos of the six women throughout the book make the story less abstract and to see their pre-war smiling faces is heartwarming. There are also magazine adverts images to show what fashions Frau Hoss and her ilk would have requested.
Ms. Adlington has done an impressive job telling a complicated story. Can I say I enjoyed it? I don’t know that “enjoy” is the right word. I would say it was a difficult but fascinating read and anyone who is interested in fashion history will want this book in their library.
Posted in Fashion, Uncategorized, Vintage, tagged fashion books, fashion history, fashion history books, fashionable quotes, Lucy Adlington, The Dressmakers of Auschwitz, vintage fashion, World War II history, WWII fashion on October 18, 2021| Leave a Comment »
Winter coats, an important investment and carefully treasured, now unbelted and set aside. Sweaters and cardigans, often home-made, with patches of wool fluff where the arms rubbed against the body, peeled off. Then, more hesitantly, the front buttons of blouses, and neat side zips of dresses and skirts, all creased from the journey, possibly marked with sweat. Shoes and boots – off, placed together out of habit, their insoles gently curved to fit the owner’s feet, the heels scuffed from all the steps their owners had walked. Socks rolled off, perhaps new, perhaps darned. Stockings unclipped from girdles and garter belts. Legs bare. Feet cold on concrete.
Lucy Adlington – British fashion historian and author of The Dressmakers of Auschwitz (Harper).
In this passage, Ms. Adlington is describing how the new arrivals at Auschwitz concentration camp had to completely disrobe.
Please check back with ODFL tomorrow for my book review of The Dressmakers of Auschwitz: The True Story of the Women Who Sewed to Survive.
Posted in Arts, Fashion, Uncategorized, Vintage, tagged collecting fashion, fashion designers, fashion exhibits, fashion history, fashion news, Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute, Sandy Schreier, vintage fashion, vintage style on October 12, 2021| 2 Comments »
Sandy Schreier is known for her collection of couture fashion that numbers over 15,000 items. The story goes that when she was a child growing up in Detroit her father worked in the fur department of a high end department store. Often he took his daughter to work where she made friends with the lady customers. Before long these wealthy ladies were gifting some of their used couture gowns and everyday wear to Ms. Schreier to play dress up. Well, even then she knew she was on to something and didn’t play with the clothing but instead kept it all safe, eventually storing everything she was given a spare room of the family home.
She continued collecting, later putting an ad in the paper looking for donations. Her collection is just that, a collection not a wardrobe. She says she considers the pieces like artwork and has never worn them.
Her collection includes pieces by Balenciaga, Schiaparelli, Chanel, Alexander McQueen, Adrian … all the biggies past and present.
In 2019 Pursuit of Fashion: The Sandy Schreier Collection at The Metropolitan Museum Costume Institute displayed 80 of the 165 pieces, which Ms. Schreier has promised to donate to the institute.
Posted in Arts, Events, Fashion, Vintage, tagged artists, artists' style, fashionable quotes, fiber artists, Japanese artists, Joseph Cornell, New York art scene, pop art, Yayoi Kusama on October 4, 2021| 2 Comments »
I was cute and lovely and always dressed nicely so I stood out. So people would stop and look at us like, ‘who’s that couple?’
Yayoi Kusama, Japanese artist.
I recently watched the documentary, Kusama Infinity. While living in New York in the 1960s Ms. Kusama dated American artist Joseph Cornell, who was many years older than she.
Ms. Kusama experienced a lot of challenges and hardship as an artist during a time when women in the NY art scene where not taken seriously. Still, she persisted and received some acclaim for work such as her soft sculptures and installations. Having endured much trauma in her childhood, she suffered from hallucinations; to help manage these frightening episodes she drew them, which is where her consistent use of nets and dots come from.
Since the 1990s Ms. Kusama has become an internationally recognized pop artist and today attracts millions of people to her exhibits. She also has crossed over into fashion, selling her own designs in department stores and collaborating with brand designers such as Louis Vuitton.