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Posts Tagged ‘fashion history’

No one can face a crisis unless they are suitably clad.

Louise Cray, fictional character from the mystery novel Madam, Will You Talk? By Mary Stewart.

I enjoy a good mystery and I recently discovered a new-to-me mystery author, Mary Stewart (1916-2014). Apparently her books were categorized Mystery/Romance back in the day, but don’t let the romance part put you off. There is just a touch of romance; the focus is the independent female protagonist and the mystery she is there to solve, not to mention all the adventures she has along the way.

Madam, Will You Talk? was published in 1955 and I recently happened upon a BBC radio dramatized version. Click here to listen.

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court… Henrietta handed over the queen’s garments, one by one, to the more important Lady of the Bedchamber, who then gave them to the queen. Mary Cowper explained how the dance of dressing commenced: ‘the Duchess of St. Albans put on the Princess’s shift, according to court rules.’ Another ex- member of the bedchamber staff likewise recalled that ‘the Bedchamber Woman gave the fan to the Lady,’ who then handed it to the queen. These nuances of role between the ‘Lady’ and the ‘Woman’ were considered to be of cut-throat importance. 

Lucy Worsley, British historian and chief curator at Historic Royal Palaces.

This quote is from Ms. Worsley’s book, The Courtiers: Splendor and Intrigue in the Georgian Court at Kensington Palace (Walker & Co.). Henrietta was A Woman of the Bedchamber for Princess Caroline (later queen) in the court of George I, 1714-1727.

The Courtiers is a look at court life during the Georgian period (1714-1760), which was by no means easy or even glamorous. The center of court was at that time Kensington Palace (eventually the home of Diana, Princess of Wales) and there was much strife between King George I and his son, George II as well as among the dozens of courtiers, who lived at the beck and call of the royal family. If you’re an Anglophile like me and enjoy good stories, this book is a fun read. I also appreciate the closer look at the first two King Georges (from Germany). A great way to learn British history.

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One of the assignments in the fashion history class I recently completed was to find historical fashion references in current fashion. In magazines I looked for examples covering ancient clothing to the 20th century and matched with historical images from books, plus I had to write a comment.

The late 20th Century: Mini-Dress

late20thC

The simple silhouette, high waist and short hem of Michael Kors design revisits (yet again) the mini-skirt fad of the 1960s. (Additionally Kors use of brocade fabric and jeweled embellishment feels a bit 18th century Baroque.)

Of course I love the matching hat! Plus you can’t see very well, but the mules are made of the same dress fabric. Go matchy, matchy!

This is the final installment of Finding Historical Fashion Today. I hope ODFL readers enjoyed the series. If the stats are any indication, you did.

There will be more historical fashion posts in the future. Stay tuned.

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maryQ

Mary Quant. Illustration by Zoe Taylor. From Selvedge magazine.

Miss Mary Quant – how could I have imagined a career in fashion without Mary Quant? She created the miniskirt for heaven’s sake. Forgive me – where would Topshop be without her? She also created the idea of Saturday night dressing, making things ‘upstairs’ that literally came off the machine and into her King’s Road shop that day in order to serve her adoring fans’ weekend characters. 

Luella Bartley, English fashion designer and fashion journalist.

This quote is from the May/June 2011 issue of Selvedge magazine. The theme of this issue is all things Britannia and Ms. Bartley was asked to choose six women who reflect the British unique and quirky sense of style.

Mary Quant was on her list. Check back for some of the others in the weeks to come.

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One of the assignments in the fashion history class I recently completed was to find historical fashion references in current fashion. In magazines I looked for examples covering ancient clothing to the 20th century and matched with historical images from books, plus I had to write a comment.

We’ve reached the 20th century: Blouse and skirt.

 

20thC

Hedi Slimane for Celine is channeling the independent woman of the nineteen-teens. His blouse with high collar, lace, and long sleeves paired with a long simple skirt says college co-ed or suffragette, or both!

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One of the assignments in the fashion history class I recently completed was to find historical fashion references in current fashion. In magazines I looked for examples covering ancient clothing to the 20th century and matched with historical images from books, plus I had to write a comment.

Gotta love those extreme sleeves of the Late 19th Century.

puffsleeves

Over-sized puffy sleeves on this otherwise simple cotton dress is the descendant of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve, which enjoyed a revival in the 1890s after its debut in the early part of the century.

By the 1890s hoops and bustles were out of fashion. As women were becoming more independent, some fighting for the right to vote, they needed to get around more easily. Simpler skirts paired with shirtwaists (blouses) were the look and when the skirts narrowed, the sleeves expanded.

lom.sleeves

A tailor-made with leg-of-mutton sleeves. c.1895. Image from Survey of Historic Costume (Fairchild Books).

 

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One of the assignments in the fashion history class I recently completed was to find historical fashion references in current fashion. In magazines I looked for examples covering ancient clothing to the 20th century and matched with historical images from books, plus I had to write a comment.

This week we have the fluff and frills of the 18th Century Ball Gown.

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This expansive backside and numerous ruffles makes this gown by Marc Jacobs fit for any Rococo 18th Century royal court. (But this model’s tiny head is calling for a tall wig.)

 

ballgown

More historical fashion next week.

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One of the assignments in the fashion history class I recently completed was to find historical fashion references in current fashion. In magazines I looked for examples covering ancient clothing to the 20th century and matched with historical images from books, plus I had to write a comment.

This week: The Falling Collar

 

FC.1

 

This blouse by Alberta Ferretti has a lace collar that extends over the shoulder, reminiscent of the 17th Century Falling Collar. Men’s fashions during this time were far more ostentatious that women’s. They loved their embellishments and the more the better – lace, bows, panes, and slashes, layers, wigs, gloves.

FC.2

A close-up of the lace Falling Collar.

By this time Trunk Hose are out and Breeches are in. Dublets are still worn and attached to the Breeches by hook and eye, rather than points (or laces). The Falling Collar has replaced the Ruff. Boots and large brimmed hats adorned with ostrich feathers round out the overall look.

Let’s hear it for the men of the 17th century!

Want more? Check back next week.

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One of the assignments in the fashion history class I recently completed was to find historical fashion references in current fashion. In magazines I looked for examples covering ancient clothing to the 20th century and matched with historical images from books, plus I had to write a comment.

Over the next weeks I’m sharing what I found.

 

This week’s historical influence is the Doric Chiton.

chiton

I’m inspired by the simplicity of the Ancient Greek Doric Chiton. I wear long dresses and skirts in summer at home and I find they are cool and comfortable, but not sloppy in certain fabrics. A cotton weave is best.

Clothing in ancient cultures were draped and folded, tied or attached by a T-shape pin called a “peplos pin.”

It’s hard to read my comment above but the modern dress is by Prada, spring 2020. The basic silhouette and ties at the shoulders speak Doric Chiton to me.

Tune in next week for another post on Finding Historical Fashion Today.

 

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One of the assignments in the fashion history class I recently completed was to find historical fashion references in current fashion. In magazines I looked for examples covering ancient clothing to the 20th century and matched with historical images from books, plus I had to write a comment.

I hopped right on it and started looking when the class began in January and it took me pretty much the whole semester. It wasn’t something you could get done in one sitting (I think that some of the other students might have tried). It was old-school cut and paste and I really had fun with it.

I’m going to share my findings with ODFL readers over the next weeks. First up is the Schenti:

FH1

Tune in again next week.

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