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I somehow persuaded the managing editor’s office that Issie needed my help with shoots, and spent a blissful six months working for her. I would arrive at 10, dressed in my uniform of black jeans and a black polo neck (all I could afford then), and sit in the dark corner Issie had been allocated in the spacious fashion editor’s room (her ebullience distracted the other editors, who placed her as far away as possible). I would start organizing what we were going to do that day … Invariably the phone would ring about 11, with Issie on the line saying, ‘Darling – could you come round to Elizabeth Street? Had too much gin last night.’ I’d grab a black cab, head over to Belgravia, sit by Issie’s narrow four-poster bed taking notes, and spend the rest of the day executing her wishes.

Plum Sykes – British fashion journalist.

This quote is from the article, Goodbye Vogue House, in Vogue magazine, December 2023. The British Vogue magazine headquarters (called Vogue House) is relocating after decades in the same Mayfair building. Three former staff members, including Sykes, chimed in on their memories of working at British Vogue.

Sykes was at Vogue in the early 1990s working for the dynamo fashion icon Isabella Blow (Issie).

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You learn to write by writing, and you learn to write about fashion by writing about fashion.

This is a quote from the recently published book Fashion Writing: Journalism and Content Creation, by Josephine Collins and Stephen Spear (Laurence King Publishing).

I certainly learned to write by writing, although, I studied it as well. After reporting and writing feature stories for a variety of publications, I slowly turned my interest in fashion into my primary focus.

Fashion Writing: Journalism and Content Creation offers an overview of the current landscape of fashion writing, and a thorough guide to the many options available to aspiring writers, as well as what it takes to succeed. I wish I had a book like this when I was starting out.

In their introduction, Collins and Spear discuss what traditional journalism was and what it is today. Then in six chapters they explain the particulars of fashion writing:

  • Context
  • Fundamentals
  • Product
  • People
  • Inspiration
  • Content and the New Fashion Journalism

Each chapter ends with a Q&A with a professional in the business, including luminaries such as NYT fashion columnist Vanessa Friedman and freelance fashion writer Luke Leitch. Collins and Spear provide tips on researching, interviewing, note taking, and how to write a feature. I was particularly impressed with Chapter 3, which covers what you need to know about fashion to write about it – silhouettes, fabrics, assessing a collection, seasons, and trends.

Chapters are color coded and include photos and images. An index, a glossary, and a list of resources for further reading completes what could be considered a manual. Read it cover to cover and this book is like taking a class. Any student, aspiring fashion writer, or even someone already writing about fashion will greatly benefit from Fashion Writing Journalism and Content Creation. I have!

(ODFL thanks Laurence King Publishing for providing a review copy.)

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Ariana Rebello is fashion journalist based in New York City. As a first-generation American of Indian descent, she has been motivated to encourage South Asian representation in fashion. She currently produces her own fashion talk show, I Don’t Have Style Either, on NY2C, a video guide on what’s new and exciting in NYC. Originally from Northern Virginia, Ariana studied music business at Hofstra University with a concentration in PR and accelerated law.

Ariana was kind enough to fill us in on her journey with a Q&A.

What attracted you to fashion journalism? 

My interest for journalism started because my dad was a journalist in DC. Aside from that, I would watch shows like Watch What Happens Live with Andy Cohen, and the Drew Barrymore show and be completely mesmerized with the hosts’ charming personality and the deep, and moving conversations they could bring out of their guests. Because of this, I started my own women’s talk show at my college radio station. This show focused specifically on talking about trailblazing women in entertainment and their stories of success. I was connected to NY2C through that show and decided to change paths into fashion. Fashion was an outlet for me to be creative in a way that I loved. 

I have enjoyed watching I Don’t Have Style Either. Would you please tell us the premise behind the series? 

I Don’t Have Style Either is a show about using fashion and style to personalize yourself and creating an open space for difficult dialogues in the fashion industry. We usually shoot a sit down interview with our guest and then ask the guest to show us the method behind their skills. If it’s a model, we are learning to pose for pictures. If it’s a stylist, we are learning how colors and certain patterns work for different people.

What do you look for in a potential interviewee? 

I always look for someone I personally admire. I am lucky to say that every one of my guests are people that I consider friends and role models of mine. In the future I will be looking for guests with unconventional origin stories and guests that teach the viewers a skill they can use forever. 

A lack of diversity in fashion has always been an issue, but do you think we’ve made any progress in recent years? What changes would you like to see? 

I do believe the fashion industry has changed for the better in the last decade, however, there is always more that can be done. Designers such as Claudia Li and Collina Strada have started that conversation through using models of various cultural and ethnic backgrounds to showcase their collections.

When you’re not working and want some fashion fun, what’s your go-to fashion media platform? 

I am a tiktok girl until I die. I have so many favorite tiktok creators that influenced me to not only work in fashion journalism, but also to move to the city three years ago. I would say some that inspired me are Davis Burleson, Kit Price, Lacey Tanner and, Arabella Bartelloni. 

How would you describe your personal style? 

My personal style changes all of the time! I love goth and emo influences from the early 2000’s and I had to force myself not to get a bunch of tattoos and paint my room black. But I also love the classic styles of Jackie Kennedy and Grace of Monaco. And on a Saturday night I just want to wear a super business pantsuit with a sheet mesh top underneath

A role model of mine told me that you don’t need to pick a niche for personal style, you can wear whatever you want and make your own “core style.” Ariana Core is large t shirts, boy shorts and blazers with high heel boots and ribbons in your hair. 

Do you have a favorite South Asian designer?  Do you see cultural references in their designs? 

I have too many to count. My dream is to one day work with Prabal Gurung. But this year I loved seeing Rahul Mishra’s spring couture collection. He has made it a point to employ over a thousand artisans from Indian craft communities. His collection was based off of the Ghandian philosophies such as cultural sustainability. I can’t wait to see more South Asian designers during the second season of South Asian New York Fashion Week.

What’s up for you style-wise this summer? 

Though the summer is a time to relax, there is a lot to do.  I have been in Europe all spring and I have adored it, but there is nothing better than NYC in the summer. This summer will be the time for one piece swimsuits, new balances in the office, and vests of every color, texture and size.

I’m with you on vests! I think they have been an underappreciated accessory, but to add color, interest, and sometimes a little needed warmth in air-conditioning, vests are an excellent choice for summer.

Thank you, Ariana! Enjoy your summer style and I look forward to seeing you on I Don’t Have Style Either.

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Eleanor Lambert, circa 1930s. Photo by Cecil Beaton.

In January 1943 … fifty-three editors from across the United States came to Fashion Week for the first time. The Collections were all to be shown in the glorious, million-square-foot neo-Rococo Plaza Hotel. which, standing at the intersection of Fifth Avenue and Fifty-seventh Street in Manhattan, dominates Grand Army Plaza and overlooks the tangle of Central Park. Here, in the hotel’s majestic, gilded ballrooms, the writers and editors were given a privileged look at the newest styles six months in advance of the upcoming season. 

 

The woman behind the very first Fashion Week in 1943 was Eleanor Lambert (1903-2003), a fashion publicist. Ms. Lambert was all about marketing American fashion and fashion designers. Not only did she come up with the idea of Fashion Week she also founded the International Best Dressed List and the Coty’s Fashion Award.

Up until Fashion Week, regional fashion journalists were limited in their reporting to what fashions were available in the local department stores and boutiques. Ms. Lambert offered journalists from across the country an opportunity to meet designers and see in person their latest designs during an extensive fashion show. What she had in mind was additional and broadened fashion coverage and of course increased sales for her clients.  It certainly was a game changer for fashion journalism.

This is one of many fashion tid-bits I found in the book –  Charles James Portrait of an Unreasonable Man: Fame, Fashion, Art. By Michele Gerber Klein (Rizzoli). Ms. Lambert is one among many individuals (artists, socialites, designers) who circulated around and crossed paths with Charles James. Their stories make for an interesting and informative read.

Fashion Week is still with us. NYFW happens September 6-14, 2018.

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