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Archive for January, 2024

I have always believed that breaking rules is what makes clothes interesting. It is what I’ve done in different ways for my entire career. I love mixing fabrics and shapes in unexpected ways – the classic with the modern, the rugged with the elegant. There are no limits, as long as it’s done with a certain taste level.

Ralph Lauren – American fashion designer.

Ralph Lauren is one of my favorite designers. I appreciate his always tasteful designs and his nod to the past.

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Image courtesy of the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco.

Congratulations to the de Young Museum and Laura Camerlengo, Associate Curator of Costume and Textile Arts at the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco for their latest fashion exhibition, Fashioning San Francisco: A Century of Style, open now through August 11, 2024.

There has been much anticipation among the local fashion crowd for this exhibition that features over 100 high and couture fashion pieces worn by prominent SF Bay Area women and created by top designers including:

  • Lucile
  • Jeanne Lanvin
  • Rei Kawakubo
  • Christian Dior
  • Vivienne Westwood
  • Christopher John Rogers
  • Alexander McQueen 
  • and many more – more than 50.

The Fine Arts Museums has an impressive and extensive collection of 20th and 21st century women’s fashions thanks to generous donations by Bay Area women. This is the first time in more than 35 years that pieces from the collection have been shown. Additionally there are pieces loaned to the exhibit by locals including Sherri McMullen, East Bay resident and owner of McMullen, an Oakland boutique named by Vogue and Women’s Wear Daily as among the premiere fashion retailers in the country.

Christopher John Rogers, 2021. Image courtesy of the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco.

I was disappointed to have missed the Press Preview, but did I attend the Members Preview Day and I appreciated getting a different perspective. There was a certain excitement in the air and I enjoyed hearing people’s comments and reactions as well as chatting with fellow fashion enthusiasts, including Lee, a Bay Area resident who as a designer herself was interested in taking a close look at construction. She pointed out to me that a 1955 Dior dress has zippers underneath the sleeves.

Backed by lightweight curtains with subtle architectural designs, Fashioning San Francisco is divided into seven sections that smoothly transition from one to the next: after the 1906 earthquake, the little black dress, suits, global influences, fashion as art, formal wear, and a small collection of shoes.

While attendees moved from section to section a soundtrack of mid-century standards played in the background. I asked fellow attendee, Aldona what she thought of the music and she said that she hadn’t noticed. After listening for a moment she commented, “It’s like we’re at a party.” It did feel like a party and suddenly I craved a cocktail.

“Junon” Christian Dior, 1949. Image courtesy of Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco.

But we were already giddy looking at the dazzling fashions surrounding us. Particularly in the formal wear section, where two well-known evening gowns by Christian Dior – Junon and Venus – with their fairytale sparkle called out to the crowd.

I was also drawn to the suits and one that caught my eye was a 1999 John Galliano for Dior: wool slacks and a jacket designed to wear backwards. I would have loved to have seen it from the back. Another Galliano that I liked was an ensemble with a short black jacket that had unexpected cutout detail on the sleeves.

John Galliano jacket, 1996. Love that detail!

Something new (at least to me) was the use of two levels of mannequin displays, called “balconies” one on top of the other. I liked the simplicity and use of space, plus it felt fresh and it offered viewing from a distance – why not bring opera glasses? Also new and great fun is Snap AR Activation, which allows attendees to “try on” some of the couture in the exhibit. Stand in front of a screen and like magic it will drape your reflection in a beautiful gown. (Don’t miss it – it’s located downstairs from the main exhibit.)

Well-Suited. The John Galliano for Dior suit I mention is center bottom. Image courtesy of the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco.

For a deeper dive, Laura Camerlengo has edited a 336 page catalogue that accompanies this exhibit and includes detailed images, information about who owned and wore some of the pieces, and essays by fashion historians.

The exhibition catalogue is available in the museum shop.

I walked through the exhibition three times and could have circled again and again and still spotted something I didn’t see before and that’s a good reason to buy the book.

Fashioning San Francisco: A Century of Style is a fashion feast. Don’t miss the party. Click here for tickets.

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After The Ball: Formal Wear in the Big City is one of the sections of Fashioning San Francisco: A Century of Style on now at the de Young Museum. Image courtesy of the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco.

Opening night gives San Francisco a chance to get the fashion jump … and the well-dressed women make the most of their chance.

A quote from an article in Life magazine, 1952.

Check back tomorrow for my review of Fashioning San Francisco: A Century of Style.

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There is something about sparkle this time of year that lifts my spirits. In January I pull out some of my sparkly pieces of jewelry, which includes a strand of cut crystal beads that belonged to my grandmother, a vintage rhinestone star brooch, and a Victorian diamond horseshoe pendant that is also a family piece.

Every day I choose one sparkly piece of jewelry to wear. (I like to think that the horseshoe pendant offers a bit of luck to the new year.)

A touch of sparkle makes the so-called “bleak midwinter” a little brighter.

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ODFL is pausing today to honor the memory of Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. (always a well-dressed gentleman).

Photo by Gotta Be Worth It on Pexels.com Martin Luther King memorial in Washington, D.C.

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Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

Bill Blass (1922-2002), American fashion designer.

Many years ago, when I was in college and working in a health food restaurant, a co-worker friend of mine told me that when she was feeling low she would swipe a layer of red lipstick on her mouth and slip on a pair of sunglasses. With her armor in place, she was ready to face the world.

I always remembered that because then and now I never leave the house without a swipe of lipstick and sunglasses – no matter how I’m feeling.

In these dark and chilly winter days, with the holidays behind us, we might be feeling a bit blue. I agree with Blass that red, really any color, can lift the spirits.

(On a sidenote – I remember loving Bill Blass patterned hose back in the 1980s. In high school I had a lot of fun experimenting with style and I discovered that an interesting patterned hose in a bright color could really pop an outfit. I liked to sport fuchsia or electric blue with all black.)

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Here we are at the final day of The Twelve Days of Shoes.

Aren’t these shoes fabulous? They are an unusual copper color leather and date from the 1920s.

Inside one of the shoes is marked “Halle” which was a department store in Cleveland, Ohio from 1891 until 1982. I enjoy seeing how far vintage items have traveled and I do wonder what that path was from there and then to here and now. In this case I only know that last 30 years.

I used to help my mother, who was an antique jewelry dealer, do antique shows; often she and I would dress in vintage clothing to add a certain appeal to our booth (plus it was such fun). I remember she wore these shoes with a lovely cut velvet dress. I don’t know how she came to own this pair of shoes; I imagine she found them at a vintage shop. Eventually she passed the shoes on to me when I started going to Art Deco events.

Like many of the others in my collection, these shoes have also seen a lot of fun at various dances and evening events. I have paired them with a 1930s brown velvet dress and a green silk Kiss of the Wolf long sheath dress.

I hope that readers have enjoyed the ODFL Annual Twelve Days of Christmas – the shoe edition. There’s more fashion fun ahead for 2024.

Stay tuned.

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It’s Day Eleven of The Twelve Days of Shoes and today we have an old favorite and the pair of shoes used in the ODFL logo. (Take a look at the top.)

Yes, they are a bit tattered as they have danced many a night away. These suede 1940s platforms are made by Urbanites by James Kean. The cutouts on the top adds interest and the platform with the three inch heel gives height without pain. I have worn these shoes with long gowns to dances, day dresses to period events, and even trousers when working. They fill a lot of needs.

Pop back to ODFL tomorrow for one last peek into my shoe closet.

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Hello to Day Ten of The Twelve Days of Shoes.

I found these shoes at an antique collective shop that also had a large vintage clothing section. Someone just my shoe size (5) had put on consignment their lovely shoe collection. These “1990s does Spectators” in black and white are by Bruno Magli.

Spectator shoes originally were an oxford style designed for men back in the late 1900s. Considered a bit too ostentatious, they didn’t really gain popularity until the 1920s when at the same time the style was made for women. Although always a classic choice for women, it still goes in and out of fashion and also sometimes takes a different spin with various contrasting colors and heel size.

I like a spectator for semi-dressy occasions in the spring and summer. I’ve worn this pair to many an afternoon party that required standing and actually, despite that heel, they’re not too painful.

We’re getting close to the end of our shoe tour.

Don’t miss tomorrow.

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Welcome back to Day Nine of The Twelve Days of Shoes.

Here’s another fabulous pair of shoes that I found at Collector’s Choice, an antique collective in Lafayette. They have since closed, but the shop was a large collective that had furniture to rings and everything in between. I enjoyed stopping by and perusing the vintage clothing section as well as the jewelry, which included a large cabinet of Bakelite.

Today’s installment is a pair of 1970s pumps by Palizzio in a taupe silk fabric with embroidery. I’m drawn to the unexpected in fashion and these shoes certainly are that. I like the uniqueness of fabric shoes and the pop of color in the form of flowers (and grass) up against the neutral taupe. I also like the texture that the embroidery offers.

Palizzio was founded in the early 1940s by two businessmen in New York. Known for quality shoes with matching handbags, the Palizzio line was sold in department stores. In the 1950s Andy Warhol created their advertising graphics. The company closed sometime in the 1980s.

I often pair these pumps with what I call my party dress – a brown 1950s cotton dress with a full skirt. That outfit makes me feel festive.

Tomorrow is another day and another pair of shoes.

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